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Reimer's Ranch
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Arbor Wall 
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Dead Cats 
Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall 
Hand Beyond Wall 
House of Pain 
Insect Wall (including Block Party) 
Mai Tai Wall 
Millennium Wall 
Oblivion Wall 
Rhetoric Wall 
Serpent Wall 
Sex Canyon 
Sex Cave 
T-Roofic Wall 
Tit for Tom 
World's Greatest Boulder 
Zoe's Wall 

Rest Day:
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Reimer's Ranch 


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Administrators: Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Jun 28, 2006

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Linda starting up the route

Description 

Located approximately 30 miles southwest of Austin, Reimer's Ranch provides an excellent selection of pocketed limestone sport climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.14. The majority of the walls overlook the Pedernales river a short distance away which provides an excellent post-climb cool down in the summer.

In the past, climbers would usually be greeted by Milton Reimer or his wife, Joy, at the gate. For two dollars a person, one gained access to excellent climbing in a beautiful locale. The entry ticket contained the rules ("No naked parties, no beer drinkin", etc.).

Travis County recently purchased the property and began official operation on December 1, 2005. Starting in January of 2006, the park was open to the public 7 days a week (it was previously open only Thursday through Sunday) from sunrise to sunset. The current entry fee is $8.00 per car (so pack 'em in). Check out Travis County's website for Reimer's Ranch Park for more information on hours and fees.

EDIT (02/2013):The County has done a really nice job renovating the facilities at the park. There are now flush toilets and covered picnic areas at the climbers trailhead as well as more extensive restroom facilities at the mountain bike trailhead across the main road, including outdoor showers? The entry fee has been raised to $10 a car, so carpool.


Getting There 

From Austin, take Highway 71 west. Turn left at FM 3238 (also known as Hamilton Pool Road). The entrance to the ranch will be approximately 12 miles down this road on the right.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Reimer's Ranch:
Eight Flake   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
My Name is Mud   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch   Dead Cats
Dead Cats   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch   Dead Cats
Prototype   5.10b/c     Sport, 1 pitch   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
T-Roofic Detour   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch   T-Roofic Wall
Wife in the Fast Lane   5.10d     Sport, 40 feet   Crankenstein
Bastards in the Brothel   5.11a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   House of Pain
Centipede   5.11a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Dead Cats
Unnatural   5.11-     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey   5.11b     Sport, 25 feet   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Spider Grind   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Sex Cave
Crankenstien   5.11+     Sport, 40 feet   Crankenstein
Liposuction   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Sex Cave
Jade   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   House of Pain
Yertle the Turtle   5.12a     Sport, 50 feet   Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Deflower Power   5.12b     Sport, 45 feet   Insect Wall (including Bloc...
Body Wax   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Sex Cave
Rain Dance   5.12b     Sport, Chipped, 40 feet   House of Pain
Learning to Crawl   5.12c     Sport, Chipped, 40 feet   Sex Canyon
Elephant Man   5.13-     Sport, 50 feet   Sex Cave
Browse More Classics in Reimer's Ranch

Featured Route For Reimer's Ranch
The classic shot of liposuction's start

Liposuction 5.12a  TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Cave
Super classic route on great limestone tufas. Start on the ledge at the front end of the cave and head out horizontally on huge tufas to the obvious large tufa in the cave. From here start heading vertical.Super pumpy. good holds and good rests if you know how to get through it....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX


Comments on Reimer's Ranch Add Comment
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By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 15, 2006

You can download a number of .pdf topos for the climbing areas at Reimer's Ranch from the Texas Climbers web site (texasclimbers.com):

Reimer's Ranch Topos

By Jfoley
Oct 22, 2011

What is the climbing like here in Dec-Jan? Sunny cliffs?,windy?,temps?

Thanks!

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 26, 2011

Jay, I believe that Prototype, House of Pain, Crankenstien etc. face either west or slightly NW and catch afternoon sun. Dead Cats, T-roofic, Tit for Tom face more West or SW and catch sun earlier. Sex Canyon and Cave face south though their steep nature provides shade in the summer, the Canyon probably gets sun in winter while the Cave probably does not. There are also a few routes across the canyon that face north and would not catch sun.

As far as temperatures go it has never been TOO cold for me to climb there and we visit often for Thanksgiving and Christmas. That said it can be cold and the humidity compared to NM will make it seem a bit colder. That said you could need down jackets to belay or it could be 70 degrees.

Wind has never been a problem when I've been there.