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An interesting route with E facing chimney and S facing face climbing. From NCAR, hike down to and up Bear Canyon to past Bear Creek Spire (1st strata), go up gully past Southern Dinosaur Egg, to Northern Dinosaur Egg. Find a prominent, E-facing chimney. The rating comes from the guidebook, which didn't seem so far off as to change it.
P1. Ascend this chimney (unusual for the Denver area), finding occasional jaunts out right of the chimney, pass a chockstone, and belay on a second chockstone (long pitch).
P2. Step across and move on to the R side of the S face via improbable looking face holds (crux) to the top (short pitch). 5.5+.
Descent: rappel from the anchor on top about 125' to the ground. A single 60m rope rap will leave you with some downclimbing. Rappelling from the top anchor may potentially leave a difficult rope pull. There is a 2nd anchor shortly below the top that can be utilized to reduce rope drag.
Standard rack - wireds, set of cams to #4 Camalot, a few hexes.
Nils Albert, P1 (correction).
John Saccardi follows the chimney section on 'Reha...
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 11, 2007
We did this today, climbing P2 from the first rather than the second chockstone. It seemed harder than 5.5, and some of the holds were rotten, so perhaps this is NOT the correct way.
|By Christina kalb|
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
The bolt/piton rap anchor at the top is set in partially hollow rock. Be careful. I highly recommend moving the anchor slightly south on the rock so that it is set in better rock (if you know how to drill bolts), or bringing a longer 80 m rope and slinging the large boulder at the top for the rappel (this may prove difficult in pulling the rope down though). I would not recommend trusting the bolt/piton at the top.