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 ADVANCED
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M / B&D T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Three Strikes T 
Unknown Right Arete T 

Rehabilitation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chris Pendleton, Gary Olsen, and Bret Ruckman 1984
Page Views: 1,240
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...

Description 

The furthest left climb on the this section of walls. It consists of a right trending flake that lends itself well to jams (finger and hand).

Protection 

The climb utilizes trad gear only. I utilized medium and large nuts, and medium cams. The anchor consists of slings around a flake, so one would be wise to bring extras in case the old ones need to be cut off.


Photos of Rehabilitation Slideshow Add Photo
Nathan doing a nice little stem.
Nathan doing a nice little stem.
zipping up with ease.
zipping up with ease.

Comments on Rehabilitation Add Comment
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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 21, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I don't really recognize Nathan's description...or perhaps we were on different variations. Either way, this climbs the right facing 3 inch "flake", which snakes its way up and right to the bush on top of the wall. I wouldn't recommend this climb for 5.7 leaders. You need good footwork and the placements are thin, small and there are some exciting runouts for a 60 foot (?) climb. Bring medium and small nuts, and bring small cams (0's, 1's, 2's, 3's.) The more small cams you have the better you will feel. The biggest cam I placed was a .5 camalot. The anchor as of today is a well slung tree/bush. While you are there, top rope Deception (the arete to the right of Rehabilitation.)
By Brian B Ballard
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2009

Agree with above, a few to many slings up top I think, some could be cut off to clean things up.
By Keenan Burkley
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

C3's work well for the spicy lower section. i wouldn't have minded having a couple more of the smaller sizes on me