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Right at the crux. Rehab. 7/2012.
Photo: James S...
This route runs up a bolted route just left of the small arete route Hushed Passage (5.10c), bolted until you get up to an awful flared crack about 60 feet off the ground.
Pro isn't so great until your'e about 6 feet into the crack, at which point you're past the hard part. Continue in the crack system up to a bolts, which are shared with Tag Team (5.10a).
4 bolts on the lower section, pro to 4" on top.
Climbing the dikes and flares in the lower face se...
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Jun 6, 2007
Give me a break! The crack takes GREAT pro at the crux, a sinker smaller (#5 or so) stopper. Thought provoking moves, great route.
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 1, 2008
I agree! The pro was fine. The fall is clean if you dont get gear in there. Awful is not the way i would describe the crack. It may have cleaned up since this was written. May need another vote.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 4, 2010
Not to jump on the criticism-bandwagon, but this route is quite easy to protect throughout, and it's worth mentioning that in the interest of accuracy. The crux after the fourth bolt takes a range of pieces (I used a yellow Metolius piece), and the top--while physical--absolutely swallows cams. To be sure, any route can be scary, regardless of "protectability", but nervous climbers considering an ascent of Rehab should at least know what they're getting in to: an awesome, varied, and sustained route.
From: Sebastopol, CA
Jul 18, 2010
Upper crux is waaaay easier if you span out to the arete on your right, then awesome steep hands to the top. I used #1,2, & 3 camalots, in that order.
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 9, 2012
Great route. Nice movement through the bottom section on dikes and flaring runnels. Fat rest on a ledge below the crux moves. As said before, the crux takes a bomber medium nut. Short move and you're into the hands. Protects well. Steeper than it appears.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Oct 1, 2012
Not one of those climbs that necessarily stands out from the ground, but the climbing proves to be excellent.
My experience was that the climbing between bolts 2 and 3 was the crux of the climb, but maybe I just hit the jams perfectly on the crack crux (right after bolt 4). It seemed like no more than 10+ climbing to me there, but I have seen somebody get screwed by pro'ing in the wrong section. Additionally, the climbing between the second and third bolts is slightly head's up, a nut or small cam gives you a couple more feet on what would be a bit of a scary fall. Not sure you'd hit anything, but it might be closer than desired.
I guess the real crux for me was when I suddenly fell out of a 5.9 hand jam after flashing the guidebook cruxes, blowing the onsight! You know, just for giggles. Once I shore up 5.9 I'll be back! Ha! At least ze Germans got to laugh at my ensuing shit storm of profanities.
A couple finger and some 2"-4" cams for the wider crack at the top were used.
|By Ryan Curry|
Oct 2, 2012
I really like this route. It has a variety of climbing styles and protects well. The crux seems to be different for different climbers. For me it's down low, but some of my friends thought it was past the last bolt.
For the record, this route was put up by Petch. Thanks, Petch!