Rehab 5.11a
| 598 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Aron Quiter on Aug 29, 2003 |
| |
Right at the crux. Rehab. 7/2012. Photo: James S...
Add Photo Printer View
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
|
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description This route runs up a bolted route just left of the small arete route Hushed Passage (5.10c), bolted until you get up to an awful flared crack about 60 feet off the ground. Pro isn't so great until your'e about 6 feet into the crack, at which point you're past the hard part. Continue in the crack system up to a bolts, which are shared with Tag Team (5.10a). Scary.
Protection 4 bolts on the lower section, pro to 4" on top.
Climbing the dikes and flares in the lower face se...
| | |
By Nick Stayner From: The Magic City Jun 6, 2007
| Give me a break! The crack takes GREAT pro at the crux, a sinker smaller (#5 or so) stopper. Thought provoking moves, great route. |
By Schoney From: Joshua Tree Oct 1, 2008 rating: 5.11a
| I agree! The pro was fine. The fall is clean if you dont get gear in there. Awful is not the way i would describe the crack. It may have cleaned up since this was written. May need another vote. |
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Jul 4, 2010
| Not to jump on the criticism-bandwagon, but this route is quite easy to protect throughout, and it's worth mentioning that in the interest of accuracy. The crux after the fourth bolt takes a range of pieces (I used a yellow Metolius piece), and the top--while physical--absolutely swallows cams. To be sure, any route can be scary, regardless of "protectability", but nervous climbers considering an ascent of Rehab should at least know what they're getting in to: an awesome, varied, and sustained route. |
By Dodrill From: Sebastopol, CA Jul 18, 2010
| Upper crux is waaaay easier if you span out to the arete on your right, then awesome steep hands to the top. I used #1,2, & 3 camalots, in that order. |
By Gargano From: Oakland, CA Jul 9, 2012
| Great route. Nice movement through the bottom section on dikes and flaring runnels. Fat rest on a ledge below the crux moves. As said before, the crux takes a bomber medium nut. Short move and you're into the hands. Protects well. Steeper than it appears. |
By Colonel Mustard From: Reno, NV Oct 1, 2012
| Not one of those climbs that necessarily stands out from the ground, but the climbing proves to be excellent. My experience was that the climbing between bolts 2 and 3 was the crux of the climb, but maybe I just hit the jams perfectly on the crack crux (right after bolt 4). It seemed like no more than 10+ climbing to me there, but I have seen somebody get screwed by pro'ing in the wrong section. Additionally, the climbing between the second and third bolts is slightly head's up, a nut or small cam gives you a couple more feet on what would be a bit of a scary fall. Not sure you'd hit anything, but it might be closer than desired. I guess the real crux for me was when I suddenly fell out of a 5.9 hand jam after flashing the guidebook cruxes, blowing the onsight! You know, just for giggles. Once I shore up 5.9 I'll be back! Ha! At least ze Germans got to laugh at my ensuing shit storm of profanities. A couple finger and some 2"-4" cams for the wider crack at the top were used. |
By Ryan Curry Oct 2, 2012
| I really like this route. It has a variety of climbing styles and protects well. The crux seems to be different for different climbers. For me it's down low, but some of my friends thought it was past the last bolt. For the record, this route was put up by Petch. Thanks, Petch! |
|