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Regular Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,459
Submitted By: Conrad Wilson on Aug 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Regular route in parking area


The large left facing dihedral marks the start of this climb.
P1) 5.5 no pro start leads to a 5.6 dihedral. There is a spot for a nut about half way up to the dihedral, hard to spot. Ends on a ledge above the broken rock.
P2) 5.5 Walk to climbers right side of ledge, clip bolt, head up mungy, confusing ledges, tending left and then finally right up an easy ramp to bolted belay. Careful not to drop mud on belayer!
Variation - 5.10a. Far right after clipping first bolt: Instead of heading back left, climb straight up past 3 more bolts directly to the belay. Clean rock, fun, 10.a/b.
P3) 5.7 Head up dirty rock climbers left to the base of the great dihedral. The bolt can be passed for less rope drag.


Standard rack to 5". Bolts. Bolted anchors. Shoulder length slings.

Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap from 2nd Anchor
Rap from 2nd Anchor

Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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By Muscrat
Jul 1, 2015

Forget the regular 2nd pitch and do the 'variation'. Turns this into a 3+ star route.
Did this with one #3, (nothing larger) which when i went to place it, found the trigger wires were detached; oh fun!
By HenryMK
From: Chico,CA
Feb 29, 2016

Agree...Variant makes it worth it.
By rockvoyager
Apr 20, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Big dihedral up high seems to be changing. Where I used to put in a red camelot now takes a yellow.


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