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 ADVANCED
The Steeple
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Center Route, The 
East Face of The Steeple, The 
Regular Route 
Sail, The 
West Corner 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 260'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bill Rose and John Rotten
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,156
Submitted By: Milton Mugambe on Jun 23, 2010
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P2 of the Steeple's regular route. As with most a...

Description 

This classic route follows the most prominent corner system on the west side of The Steeple. The first pitch although less than memorable, redeems itself before the anchor below the fantastic second pitch. Savor the incredible second pitch's thin hand jams The final squeeze chimney pitch deposits one on an exposed summit stand on top and bust the "Christ Redeemer Move"


Location 

This route leaves the large ledge located up and left from the final approach gully. Pitch 1. Climb an easy series of steps leading to a boulder "split" by a handcrack. Climb past the boulder and through a couple of small trees. Go up and left through some low bushes, then climb up and right along a ramp system. Exit left, and climb a verticle, west-facing, hand crack to a sloping ledge. Go up and right to a nice ledge and two-bolt anchor.
Pitch2. Climb the beautiful corner above at the top of the corner section go left(east) along a wide hand crack to a point where you can look up and over to the east side. Follow the north-facing double cracks above 1" to a easy open book and ledge(be sure to protect the follower). Go right along a ledge to a two-bolt anchor. Pitch 3. Drop your gear and grind up the squezze chimney, solo the easy, but incredibally exposed northwest arete of the final summit. Clip the anchors on top and lower to the ledge and two-bolt anchor. Two single rope rappels get you to the base ledge.


Protection 

Wires and cams to 3" (2)each 3/4" to 2" One 70 meter rope.


Protection 

Wires and cams to 3" (2) each 3/4" to 2"



Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
 The fantastic second pitch of the classic Regular route
The fantastic second pitch of the classic Regular...
 The West Face of the Steeple
The West Face of the Steeple
Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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By Milton Mugambe
Jun 24, 2010

One of the best areas in a beautiful canyon.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jul 4, 2013

There's only one pitch of really good climbing on this one, but the high grade byproduct of climbing this route is a stellar hangout way up in a Woodfords gully overlooking The Fortress area across the canyon.

For a fun diversion at the top of the second pitch, head right and over the lip instead of scrambling up the trivial left-trending ramp/hand crack to finish. From here anchor in at an angled ledge boasting some metolius hangers underneath a roof and set off on a 5.11d/5.12a fingers to ridiculous roof crack called Mad Hatter that finishes at the same anchors as the Regular Route's second pitch. At least, around 5.12- is what I thought it was rated. Dan Kennedy (FAist) apparently thinks 5.11c. More accurately, it was 5.11- A0 for me ;).