|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Bill Rose and John Rotten|
|Submitted By:||Milton Mugambe on Jun 23, 2010|
|Comments on Regular Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Milton Mugambe
Jun 24, 2010
|One of the best areas in a beautiful canyon.|
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 4, 2013
There's only one pitch of really good climbing on this one, but the high grade byproduct of climbing this route is a stellar hangout way up in a Woodfords gully overlooking The Fortress area across the canyon. I'd have to disagree with the rampant stars (three out of five seems about right), but the allure of the obscure does tend to lead to overhype in the estimation of some.
For a fun diversion at the top of the second pitch, head right and over the lip instead of scrambling up the trivial left-trending ramp/hand crack to finish. From here anchor in at an angled ledge boasting some metolius hangers underneath a roof and set off on a 5.11d/5.12a fingers to ridiculous roof crack called Mad Hatter that finishes at the same anchors as the Regular Route's second pitch. At least, around 5.12- is what I thought it was rated. Dan Kennedy (FAist) apparently thinks 5.11c. More accurately, it was 5.11- A0 for me ;).
From: Reno, NV
May 27, 2014
|I thought the final chimney pitch was also good. A gut-sucking grovel up the squeeze to an exciting step across slab finish. Not to be missed. A 0.4 pros the entry moves and a slung horn pros the step across. Once you've gained the 2nd pitch there are many options for additional climbing.|