This is the "main" route up the Careno Crag as implied by the name. The thin crack at the start may be the most remarkable feature of the entire lower wall. After sweating through the balancy but short first pitch (crux), climbers will be rewarded with two more nice pitches of easier but fun and clean dihedrals. There is an obvious walk-off after the third pitch, but the route continues for another pitch.
Just downstream of the Snow Creek Trailhead parking lot on Icicle Road, see Careno Crag a few hundred feet above some houses. The route follows prominent dihedrals up the middle of the biggest rock face, right up to a large lone tree. Try to keep out of private property (start near the parking lot, and traverse in above the houses).
p1: short thinning crack to start, then bolts
p2: 0.5 to 2 inch crack
p3: similar to p2
p4: ? (someone else please fill in the blanks--we didn't have time for this pitch)
|Comments on Regular Route
May 5, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Tricky pro on the upper larger of the two pockets on the first pitch. Getting something that's good without blocking your hold isn't easy...and I think below it you get a #2 BD micro stopper or something.
|By Kelley Cox|
May 18, 2010
The fourth pitch is either the older Regular Route (5.10b); which is a number of flaring shoddy placements with a fair amount of run out, or Heave Ho (5.10a). It goes past four bolts of face climbing to a 5.10 finger tip traverse, and up into a bulging 5.9 corner, very fun.
|By Colin Bartholomew|
Jun 19, 2010
I found the fourth pitch to be enjoyable. The gear is "just good enough". Also, the grade is just a tiny bit soft if you're used to Index leads.
|By Eric Fjellanger|
Oct 8, 2010
Some offset nuts for the first pitch would be a really good idea.
|By Ryan Hoover|
Mar 27, 2013
I'll second the 4th pitch being enjoyable. The gear goes, and you can pop in a solid nut before the crux moves.
Apr 4, 2013
april 3, 2013
replaced pitch one anchor.