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Slick Rock
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Memorial Route S 
Regular Route T 
Scenic Traction T 
Slippery Slope T,S 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,055
Submitted By: JacobD on Aug 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Looking up, about 2/3 of the way up

Description 

Can be pitched out however you want. I've done it in 10 pitches and I've also done it in 6 with a 70m rope to it's full capacity on every pitch.

Location 

Decent is a walk off to the right of the summit. Follow the trail down through some switchbacks, eventually you will reach an easy chimney downclimb, some people rappell this, some put their climbing shoes, on, some just do it. After this it follows the same trail through brush all the way down. If down in the later part of the summer this descent is lined with huge huckleberries! Some 4th class.

Protection 

What rack you take depends on you experience. I now take singles in .5bd up to #4 tech friend, a set of nuts, and a few smaller cams. If not super solid on 5.6 or on building anchors in a vareity of situations I'd reccomend taking doubles. Runners really help with rope drag on full rope length pitches.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 30, 2013
By R Squared
Nov 12, 2007

If you simul climb you can climb this route in about four pitches. Runners do help. Watch for loose rock because it is all over the place. The walkoff off the back isn't bad. The trail is easy to follow. It beats rapping the whole way down. You don't need anything bigger than a number two for this route.
By R. Emerson
May 28, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a great route for a seasoned leader to "guide" a confident novice up. The second pitch, a long traverse on a dike (similar to those at Lover's Leap, Tahoe, CA) where both the leader and the second are exposed to a lengthy fall is the mental crux. Then there are a few low angle pitches up to the crack system above. Above the crack system is a slightly run out pitch on a little bit steeper rock. I'm not exactly certain why it is called slick rock since the rock has amazing friction that was definitely experienced while climbing the last two pitches in an afternoon thunder/hail storm.
By jhump
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This was a few years back, but I remember a little a-frame crack move that requires some finesse to pull. It was toward the top, you pull into an apex with a finger crack above. I remember it being testy for 5.6.
By Shapp
Mar 5, 2009

The route is way longer than 700ft, when I climbed it back in about 1995, there was only 1 old bolt on the whole route (all belays were gear anchors), why did someone feel the need for more? I cacluated at the time there was about 1350 feet of climbing (we did it in 9 pitches). You might not need anything biger than a #2 (what brand?) but there are lots of opportunites to place #3 and #4 friends or #4 camalots too, if you are a new leader.
Shapp
By Sims
From: Centennial
Nov 14, 2010

I first climbed it in 83 with my brother inlaw who lived in Mc Call. It was his first climb and he cruised it. He had never belayed so assumed I had no belay. I saw only one bolt and the route was run out in a good way.
In 93 or 94 I knew I was taking my 8 & 9 year old daughters up so I soloed it the day before. I found two or three new bolts from 83.
I think for a 5.6 leader it may be stiff and very run out. Even a 5+ what ever sport climber could get sketched.
As my daughters and I got to the bench where the climbing starts a guy said oh shit girls.
We were ready to climb they were not, closest they ever got was two or three pitches. We walked off to the right front in the rain; they waited it out so they could finish the climb.
Not sure how you would rap a largely slab route ( I remember more face than crack ) with maybe three bolts and no fixed belay stations. Even if you could sew it up you would be leaving a big part of your rack behind. We did the route in 10 full pitches with 165' ropes. The longest climb my daughters had done before was three pitches.
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Aug 7, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Very fun route with a bit more variety than the other routes on the wall. Every pitch was great, and (also unlike the other routes on the wall) it is stout for the grade.
By Brad Winters
Aug 7, 2012

First 2 belays are bolted. Go far right above the dike to some flakes 200 ft then back left 200 ft to just left of a small pine tree and back in line with the rest of the route. Walk off is not bad. Drop down off the top and then immediately head right on the trail. Can rap the steep part at the bottom from the big curved tree with a 60.
By Chris Volk
Oct 20, 2012

Climbed Oct. 12, 2012 with Frank Gould. Started on Reg. Route and finished last two pitches on the 5.8 to the right. Due to the routefinding, length, moderate runouts, and one or two surprisingly stiff moves, I'd upgrade the rating to 5.7+. Made one rap in the gully on the way down to cope with steepness and loose rock. Took 6.5 hours on the climb due this being our first trip. Some loose rock here and there, which could be dangerous if the rope swipes off a saucer. Lovely climb!
By Jeff Botimer
Mar 30, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hands down one of my favorite climbs anywhere. The last time I climbed it I paid closer attention to the length of each pitch and I believe the route to be closer to 1200 ft.
By Eric Williams
From: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Aug 7, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Climbed this with a buddy in late July. We ran the first two pitches together with a 70m rope. Great climb -- the runout isn't bad if you are a confident on lead(40-50 feet of runout at one point on 5.5ish slab). We brought a full rack and did it in 8 pitches; I would agree that it's about 1200ft. The decent isn't bad, we didn't run into anything that we felt like we had to rappel. I would say if you have to rap, you went the wrong way.
By K Baumgartner
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Where's the best place to get the topo for Regular Route? Coming out from VA next month.
By S.Lee
Sep 26, 2013

K Baumgartner, according to a post from July 2012 there are topos at the visitors center in Ponderosa State Park. We didnt check when we went a few months back, just went off of beta from the comments on the route.
By Patrick Betts
Oct 22, 2013

No topos available as of 10/22/13.

Here is the beta from our ascent yesterday.

Park at the second pullout on your left after crossing the creek via the bridge. Follow a well worn trail downhill; cross the river; and up hill to the base of slick rock.

The regular route (as we climbed it):
Pitch 1: starts at the base of an obvious 90' left facing flake/corner. Climb this and at the top of the flake traverse up and right unprotected across dikes to a two bolt anchor. 50m, 5.6r
Pitch 2: Climb up and left, unprotected, heading towards a big angling right facing corner; head straight up from the corner to another 2 bolt anchor. 55m, 5.4R
Pitch3: Climb straight up and slightly right, aiming for the wide crack with a roof at the bottom. You should now be at the base of the bottom left crack of the "triple cracks" that this route climbs. 65m, 5.4r
Pitch 4: This is where we might have gone slightly off the more regular route. Work your way up and right to a small right facing corner that marks the right end of a 20' horizontal roof. Climb straight up to the base of the center crack of the "triple cracks" right where is gets to the wide chimney section. 5.6, 50m.
Pitch 5: Follow the wide chimney crack straight up for 90', pull the somewhat awkward slab/stem/roof (5.7) and continue straight up till you find a suitable belay. 5.7,65m.
Pitch6: Climb straight up your belay following cracks and flakes till you get to a good stance with a horizontal bulge. Step right a few feet, pull the bulge (5.7) and follow cracks and flakes straight up. Do a underclinging left traverse to bypass a bulge and climbing straight up. With a 70m, belay at the horizontal crack that marks the bottom of a S-shaped flake system. 5.7, 70m
Pitch 7: Follow the S-shaped flake system for 80' then run it to the top. belay off a tree or find cracks or rocks for anchors. 5.6, 50m.

We rapped the Memorial route with double rope rappels.

That's how we did it with a 70m rope. We brought doubles from .4-2, single 3 and a set of nuts and it was a bit overkill but used every piece, just not all on a single pitch. Route got morning sun and went into the shade around 12:30pm.
By K Baumgartner
Oct 30, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Basically agree with Patrick's comments.

Here's my trip report for my local climbing community (DC-VA-MD) from my 25 Oct 13 ascent that varies a bit from Patrick's.

Slick Rock—Regular Route (5.6, 1000’+, six pitches, III)

  • ********** Alpine slab climbing on granite with a few pitches of crack. ***************

The Regular Route—featured in Issue 50 of Rock and Ice—ascends about 1,000’ and can be done in a few as six pitches and as many as 10, depending on your appetite for runouts on easy low angle slab.

We completed the route in six pitches and about 1040’ (my estimate) in just about four hours with a 70m rope. We deliberately chose to link pitches, bypassing shuts on the neighboring Memorial Route, that involved running the rope nearly to its 70m length and building anchors. This approach offered a truer alpine feel without needing to clip bolts (with one exception) or use shuts.

Approach: From the road, descend 15 feet to Lick Creek, which is crossed by walking over a two tree wide logjam. Meander through a bit of brush up to where the granite begins on 4th class terrain to the base of the rock. There are sport lines immediately to the left and about 80 feet up and to the right. Many people wind up on other routes that will eventually link up with the Regular Route. The key is to find the short, left facing corner.

Temperature: 28 degrees leaving the car at 8am. 60s by noon on mostly bluebird day.

P1: SLAB: Linked the first two pitches by skipping a set of shuts to the right on the Memorial Route (5.4R-5.6.) after topping out on the left facing corner. I had looked for the shuts but couldn’t see them until my climbing partner pointed them out to me. There was about a 50’ runout on very easy low 5th class before setting the belay.

P2: SLAB: Linked the third and fourth pitches again on low angle 5th class slab (5.4R). Again, I didn’t see the shuts on the neighboring Memorial Route and stretched the rope up as far as I could. I used an alpine belay, backed up by a few .75s.

P3: SLAB to CRACK: Another rope stretcher that we turned into simul climbing for about 20-30’ (5.4.). Built anchor at the start of the first three cracks.

P4: CRACK: Crux pitch up a bit of a chimney that steepened and went to finger locks (5.6). A bit heady above the pod on small holds with gear about 7-10' below.

P5: CRACK: Up the third crack (5.6). [I lost count of the cracks and actually thought there was at least another one left until my climbing partner said we were basically at the top.]

P6: SLAB: Pulled a few undercling and lieback moves (5.5) and finished the last 40’ on low angle Slick Rock slab. [Thought route finding would be more difficult than it was.]

Descent: WALKOFF: The walkoff had a bit of low 5th class chimney down climbing that was not that difficult. As other's have pointed out, walk right and look for the small ramp on the backside that's easy to descend. Follow the trail right, veering left.

Beta from this site was sufficient.

All in all, there are many different ways to skin this cat. Enjoy!