This is an odd one. We climbed up the face facing the road, and on the left side. After a bit of scrambling, you come to a very hueco-covered wall;...ascend this up the the shoulder of the formation.....Scramble around a bit, and find steep crack system (short ) to the summit. The climbing is funky and a bit wierd, and the anchor from the shouder is odd too;....a bunch of tied off dirt mushrooms and one pin in a hole. It's a novel experience. I had fun. I did this climb with Tony Sartin in March of 1993. Eric's Guidebook doesn't say too much of the climb; everyone sure has seen the formation, but how many have been to the summit? Take a day off from the punishing splitters and bag a summit....just for kicks.
Intersection of U.S. 191 and State Highway 211.
A rack of cams should do. I believe you place cams in heucos at one point?
New bomber anchor
(Photo taken by Jesse Brown)
The dried brown sugar rock of the upper crack pitc...
The first pitch of Church Rock c1984
On the hike to the Church Rock.
The actual summit.
|By Ben Kiessel|
Jun 16, 2007
This is a fun climb, but you don't need to take a day off of the splitters to climb this thing. It will only take you an hour or two, car to car.
The beta sounds good. But I found and it might be worth noting, that the rock at the top of the huecos was bad but easy. (or maybe I just thought it was bad because I had no pro in, I did not place pro in the huecos.) There is a pin on top of pitch one. The crack that we decided on for the second pitch, is the first one you come to when you scramble up the shoulder. We aided this crack, with multiple cams in the .4-.75 camalot size. The rock is very bad on this second pitch but short. (think dried out brown sugar)
Be careful rappeling off I remember it being. . . Interesting.
Remember to put the flag up when you get up there.
|By Matt Pickren|
Aug 22, 2007
We went via the very start of the north ridge, that sucked. More of that brown sugar Ben was talking about with no gear. So either way you get no gear on awesome rock. I lead the crack on the second pitch with lot of small cams, none of which would have held. But it is short. If you climb this, bring your own flag cause the pole is still there but no flag.
The rappel is scary yes, over a downward sloping horn, but it held. Atleast if it blows, the rock is soft enough to absorb your landing....
|By Darren Knezek|
Dec 9, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13
There are three Moki steps on the far right side of a huge hueco to start the route. You can place a large cam in the left side of the hueco and then more steps up to a huge bowl. Go up and a little left to a vertical section of huecos. A 4' sling for two natural threads and a 3.5" cam in another hueco protect this slightly scary section.
Like Ben said there's a pin for an anchor and if you have a bunch of webbing you can sling one of those dirt mushrooms for some additional support.
Hike up to the upper level and climb a short crack.
You'll see a large block with a flake crack above it and some Moki steps going through the block. I used a 3.5" cam to get above the block and then a .75" and a 1.25" cam to get thru a 5.10 section of liebacking on very uninspiring rock. Some more hand to 4" cams lead to the very sketchy slung "block anchor". Scramble up to the summit from there.