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Queen Victoria
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Regular Route T 
Route To Nowhere S 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chuck Martens 1969
Season: Fall to Spring
Page Views: 8,548
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Fly by on the summit

Description 

This is one of the nicer easy routes I've done in Sedona and probably a pretty good one for a maiden climbing experience here. From the ridge on the approach, follow your nose west along the ridge to the east side of Queen Vic where the route is located.

P1) Traverse in from the right across to a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney (5.6) to a fixed belay. I believe the anchors are visible from the ground for pitch one.

P2) From the belay, traverse left across some easier ledges to a wide crack in the limestone band. Surmount this crack (crux) to gain a big ledge above.

P3) Out left on the south face, climb up to a prominent dihedral (the "trick dihedral"), climb up the dihedral, then up a bit, traverse right and up to gain the summit anchors.

Protection 

Standard rack selection, nuts and cams. Take two ropes. I have a friend who says he made the raps with a single 60m rope. Some downclimbing might be necessary if you go that way.

Descent 

Rappel 100 feet from summit to a pair of bolts on the edge of the limestone (this anchor is located to the northwest of where you climb the wide crack). Then rappel another 100 feet to the base of the east side of the formation. Note: This descent CAN be made with a single 60m rope, but you should take note of the ends of your rope at all times!!! The bottom rappel will involve downclimbing some easy terrain to flat ground, so DO NOT rap off the end of your rope!!!


Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the 3rd pitch of Queen Victoria, Sed...
Looking up at the 3rd pitch of Queen Victoria, Sed...
Looking up at pitch 2 from the top of pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at pitch 2 from the top of pitch 1.
Double rope rapping queen vic
Double rope rapping queen vic
Queen Victoria in the center.  You should drive a ...
BETA PHOTO: Queen Victoria in the center. You should drive a ...
Tucker Tech and Todd Gordon on summit.  Photo Todd...
Tucker Tech and Todd Gordon on summit. Photo Todd...
Belay at the top of pitch two.  One bolt, huge led...
BETA PHOTO: Belay at the top of pitch two. One bolt, huge led...
First pitch
BETA PHOTO: First pitch
Dana Ikeda belaying from pitch 3
Dana Ikeda belaying from pitch 3
Sarah climbing pitch one in graduation garb
Sarah climbing pitch one in graduation garb

Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 5, 2014
By Dean Hoffman
Feb 26, 2006

I think this is a great intro to Sedona Route, challenging climbing for the uninitiated and awesome summit. It most definitely can be rapped with one 60 meter rope, just be sure you have the middle marked. Also as far as the rack is concerened, most would do fine with a single set from around blue metolius to "old style, not C4" #4 Camalot (only needed on the second pitch, but having just done it without one I'd recommend not forgetting it!) Also to whomever is chalking up the route with ratings and other random grafitti, c'mon this is Sedona. Good luck and enjoy!
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 19, 2006

To avoid the pitch 2 OW climb straight up off the first belay and through a 5.7+ corner in the Limestone band. This ends at one of the rappel anchors. I would recommend climbing the OW pitch at least once though because it is fun.
By rick klemens
Jan 22, 2008

Great classic route. Kind of chossy but good gear and a great summit!!!
By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
Mar 15, 2009

#4 C4 a very good idea for pitch 2, #5 is unnecessary unless you have one burning a hole in your pocket. Or, unless you have 90$ burning a hole in your pocket and are looking for an excuse to buy a #5. You can get an at least marginal placement with a small cam (#2 C3 for example) making the #5 unnecessary, especially since the move it protects is not hard unless you are very short. Also, there is one bolt at the top of the second pitch on a huge ledge. Great climb!
By Kimberly Creagan
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We had a great time on this route. It was very interesting, challenging, and thrilling. Most of the route seemed pretty easy, but the OW and the Dihedral seemed more like a 5.9 move to me. A little harder than I was expecting for my first multi-pitch, but wonderful none-the-less. Hiking the trail up is recommended (oops)...park at the semi-circle pullout on the left about 2 miles up if you want to link to the trail right away. Otherwise, you can hook up to the trail from the one before that by hiking up the wash.
By Angela Mabe
From: Flagstaff,AZ
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

this was such a fun climb! im glad i brought the 5 up with me. i had the newer C4 for the offwidth and it fit fine. placed nothing smaller than a .5 and the summit was unbelievable!! sedona adventure climbing for sure :)
By Greg-Az
From: Prescott Az
Jan 30, 2012

Great begginer climb. The pitches are short but have challenges, the ledges are huge, and the summit is great.

That said dont expect much climbing on this route.

I recomend the pitch 2 variation up the corner to avoid the OW. Its more fun. I would disagree about it being 5.7+ maybe a little harder. But if you can climb 5.7 just sew it up and go for it. Its the only move on the pitch so you can use a ton of gear to protect it.

If you take the second pitch variation a single set of cams from .4 to 2 (camolots) as well as a set of nuts will suffice for the entire route.

Aviod bringing two ropes unless you have to. The route raps easily with one 60m rope.
By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

You can double rope rap this one, and scramble the last ten feet.Rappel the chute on the climbers right of the start chimney.Great introduction to trad, and well protected crux moves.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Approach from cowpiles may be longer but is a great walk and you get to tour the area's standout lines. Highly recommended. I like doubles .5-2, single 3, 4, 5. Both the 4 and 5 are perfect for the short crux of p2. Nice spot for the 5 on p3 too.
By Micah Kurtz
Mar 15, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fun climb. The first pitch is the best in my opinion just because it has the most climbing. The other two pitches are basically just one move. I did think that the pro on the third pitch was very scarce until you get to the dihedral, which made it a little scary. Other then that all the pro seemed secure, no need for a #5 on pitch two, just squeeze in and reach for the ledge.
By Laurel
From: Phoenix
Apr 8, 2013

Fun day, agree with prior comments, first route has most/best climbing other pitches are 1-2 moves and than easy. If you have a #5 take it, just to make you feel better.

Just for clarification for anyone climbing Sedona or this route for the first time, you truly only need one rope..on the second rap you will be 15 feet short with a 60 and the "downclimb" is very easy. Maybe Greg can edit this in the beta section, not just on the threads.
By Paul Zander
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 1, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you're 6' 4" this will feel 5.6 because you'll be able to reach above the cruxes to large ledges. The views are stellar. Don't bring two ropes. Even if your rope is short you can break it into 3 rappels by using the anchors at the top of the first pitch without a problem.
By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 30, 2013

Hey wanted to give folks a heads up. A large group of us (7) will be climbing this spire on Sunday October 6th around noon as part of a wedding. Of course we will be happy let people pass, but just wanted to give a heads up that it may be a cluster up there.
By JBain
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 30, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This spire is a great intro to mutli pitch climbing for beginners. I did this with a friend a day before ACL surgery. The hike was the hardest part for me. You don't need the #5 but I say if you have one, bring it. One 70 meter rope does the trick with plenty left at the rap stations. You probably could get away with one 60 meter rope. Enjoy!
View from the summit
View from the summit
By David Arthur Sampson
Feb 20, 2014

Folks;
I want to give a heads up for Saturday (22 February, 2014); I am bringing a group up Queen Vic this Saturday. I will work with those (outside my group) that also plan on doing the climb that day. Hopefully we can all summit and have a wonderful, enjoyable climb! I am certain we can work it out.

Thanks,
David
By Josh Tokioka
Nov 5, 2014

Hey everyone, I'll be climbing Queen Victoria on Tuesday next week [11.11.14]. Just a heads up, we will be a part of three.