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P.A.'s Mother
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Regular Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,770
Submitted By: Jason Billings on Apr 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Brian on Regular Route, P.A.'s Mother, Rock Canyon...

Description 

This route is a large off width crack. It is easy to get to any is a great climb. It's the perfect length as a warm-up route for the day. If you have the right cams protection is easy and the climbing is good.


Protection 

Use cams between 2.5 and 4. Also placed a hex. There is a double-bolt anchor at the top and a good ledge to belay from.



Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Picture of P.A.'s Mother
BETA PHOTO: Picture of P.A.'s Mother
Regular route close up
Regular route close up
Regular Route is the Crack to the right
BETA PHOTO: Regular Route is the Crack to the right
Lots of features out of the crack for both hands and feet.
Lots of features out of the crack for both hands a...
I have my first piece at my feet. The crack opens up here to about 2 - 3". The route goes straight up from here.
I have my first piece at my feet. The crack opens ...
Regular route from the road
Regular route from the road
Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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By Lee Jensen
May 17, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There is only one bloted chain at the top of this route. While it seems fairly solid it does look like it has been through quite a few seasons of weather and use. The crack is wide, but not off width. 2 - 4" pieces protect it well.

By Chuck
From: Columbus, GA
Apr 24, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

To top rope this one, It's a little skechy getting to the anchor. You may want to do a short rappel down. Bring webbing to extend anchor over the lip. You can back the anchor up with a 10' piece of webing around a large horn at the top.

By Lee Jensen
May 21, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The anchor bolts have been replaced with chains. They are up about three feet higher then the previous "set". This makes for a really clean anchor since the rope no longer drags into the crack.

I placed Camalots 4, 3, 2, and 1, with a couple of ~3/4 inch pieces down low.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jul 2, 2009

I climbed this for the first time today. I thought this route was awesome! Great jamming with some nice holds in and out of the crack. Seemed easier than some other Rock Canyon trad 5.7s (definitely felt easier than Main Crack on Ed and Terry). Thoroughly enjoyable.

I placed .75, 1, 2, 3, and 4 Camalots. I might have placed two #1s... Two bomber, stainless ring anchors are on top. I'd still recommend putting a shoulder-length sling on each one to help with rope drag if toproping.

Also, I wouldn't call this an offwidth. It's mostly bomber hand jams with great jugs around, too. It's not necessary to do any OW moves.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yes, there are some wide pods, but in between in perfect jamming. Great fun. Worth doing a bunch of times.

By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fantastic little route. Arm jams, knee jams, gastons, hand jams, everything you could ask for in a climb, all on fantastic rock. There's even a great double pocket inside the crack you can get on. My favorite climb on this wall.

By ScowHound
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route --- climbed it twice --- more like a 5.8 in my opinon --- great pro.

By Owen Witesman
Mar 22, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As noted, some extension slings would be smart to TR this since the rings are behind the edge. Awkward, not much fun. Wouldn't climb again.