Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Slate's Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Poseidon Adventure TR 
Regular Route T 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Tom Slater and Donna Kim, Dec. 12, 1995
Season: a minus low tide
Page Views: 3,534
Submitted By: Jeff Beckman on Mar 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dom on top, me and Danny hanging off the anchors.

Description 

You can probably climb this rout without shoes if you are not worried about the bird crap. Suzanne got bit by a crab at the bottom so be careful. The rock is rather loose since it is not climbed often. I would suggest using all three bolts at the top anchor seeing as it is exposed to salt air all the time. Make sure you keep an eye on your watch since the tide can come in fast. If you figure out a way to get your rope down dry let me know.


Protection 

2 protection bolts (titanium) and a 3-point anchor at the top. The first bolt is hard to find.

[Update 5/20/06: new anchors w/stainless rap rings and stainless belay bolt added; old belay chains removed].



Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Brandon Thau and Tom Slater, May 2006.
Brandon Thau and Tom Slater, May 2006.
This is zoomed,,, I kept as respectful a distance as possible by hanging off the bolts to belay my 2nd, but still got dive bombed by seriously pissed off gulls the whole time I was up there.
This is zoomed,,, I kept as respectful a distance ...
Sitting on top.
Sitting on top.
Location of second bolt is approximate.
BETA PHOTO: Location of second bolt is approximate.
Nearing the 1st bolt on the Regular route. Chest deep with a 1' tide to get on it.
Nearing the 1st bolt on the Regular route. Chest d...
Fun and unavoidably hilarious route!  Unique and scenic without a doubt.
Fun and unavoidably hilarious route! Unique and s...
Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jody Langford
Aug 22, 2004

Who left the Igloo hanging off the top of Slate's? Just curious. It is a few fee to the left of the top anchors and hanging over the edge from a piece of webbing.

By Anonymous Climber
Aug 22, 2004

You didn't drink all the beer I left in it, did you?

By Slater
May 22, 2006

The Igloo thermos was the origianl summit register. There is a new one (5-06). More enviro-friendly.

By vincent L.
From: Redwood City
Jan 4, 2008

I climbed the route during an average low tide. I got wet up to my waist; it was not big deal , only added to the fun. I don't feel that is necessary to wait until some ridiculously low tide to do the route. Timing the start of the route in between sets was more exhilarating than the climbing , which is very easy.

I thought about doing a tyrolean to get off. I was going to anchor the other end to the guardrail supports on the road. It looked to be quite a stretch though , at least 150 feet. It would be very fun to do though. Where else could you anchor for a tyrolean? Also, many of the pages in the register inside that little can on top are falling apart. I'm not sure if they are degrading in that can.

By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Didn't notice a register up there today. I'd avoid this one. Overrated, chossy, messy.

By Justin S
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

This was a memorable climb for me and definitely recommended for the experience. The climbing itself is run out, easy, and covered in bird shit ... but still 100% worth doing. We went during low tide, which I'd recommend, but the surf was still raging. I tried to time my start between sets, but got blasted by a shoulder height swell just as I put my hands on the wall. Pulling out of the water I was kicking kelp off my shoes. From there it was two run out bolts to the top. Crux is reaching the first bolt, but don't fall between the first and second as your belay partner is likely sitting way back on the beach and a fall would take them for a ride through bowling ball plus sized boulders. Potential ground (water?) fall if you mess up close to the second bolt as well, but climbing is barely 5th class at that point. I was triple checking all the feet and handholds as I didn't trust the rock, but in retrospect everything was quite solid.

No summit register as of 4/9/13.

By hpduong
Jun 3, 2013

I'm headed to this area this coming weekend for some weekend backpacking. I'd like to hop on this line if I get chance. I lead high 5.10/5.11 range outdoors mostly and boulder v6/v7 range outdoors.

I doubt the climb will be a problem (other than safety), but is it safe to down climb without gear? Just plan to mess around on the boulders this weekend if I get a chance and would rather not take my rope (or unnecessary gear) and get it all wet.

By Richard Shore
Jun 3, 2013

If you have to ask about downclimbing safely, I'd guess you probably aren't ready to be soloing it. Comments above suggest it's a big chosspile. Why not bring a harness and rappel line? Ropes do dry out, it's not like you're gonna ruin it..

By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I'd say that, due to the nature of the rock, you should be able to downclimb 5.7 (no, not 5.5) in your sleep for this to feel like a secure solo. Even then...the rock is shit. I have to side with Richard on this one.

By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Jun 17, 2013

Have to disagree about the rock being shit. Choss pile? C'mon guys. Was not that dirty either, especially considering the context.

Real fun excursion!! Went at probably 1' tide level or so and was up to my waist and then some. I had alpine draws with me and slung something before the first bolt, but the climbing is easier than it looks and super cruiser.

I didn't pull onto the top due to a nest full of baby seagulls. I was getting heavily dive bombed by seriously pissed off gulls the whole time I was up there, which added to the hilarity of the whole experience.

Excellent one to make your lady follow you on, or perhaps a litmus test 1st date route??