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Looking Glass Rock
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Regular Route S 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 9,669
Submitted By: Nathan Tomlin on Aug 17, 2010

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The start of the route... super easy fun route. Gr...

Description 

AKA- East Rib: 3 pitch bolted route (sparse) up the SW ridge. Absolutely amazing 100% free-hanging rappel down through the amphitheater! Need two 50m ropes for the rap. Beware rattlesnakes at the base of the climb!

Location 

Climbs up the eastern ramp.

I found out about the route from 2 other webpages and stole the great info they had:

Protection 

  • P1: 2 bolts to a 2-bolt belay
  • P2: 3 bolts to a 2-bolt belay
  • P3: straight up for 1 bolt to a 2-bolt belay, though I also saw at least 1 other bolt to the right, so probably other options exist.

Rappel anchor is ~15 feet down from the top. Either walk down or use bolts at top to rap or belay someone down to the rap anchors.


Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
185ft free
185ft free
Matt on the Regular Route (which took us ~15 min t...
Matt on the Regular Route (which took us ~15 min t...
The swing
The swing
A fun airy rappel off Looking Glass Rock!
A fun airy rappel off Looking Glass Rock!
Brenda on rappel.
Brenda on rappel.
Walking around above the arch.
Walking around above the arch.
Me rappelling. Fun!
Me rappelling. Fun!
Jason at the 1st belay station, with another climb...
Jason at the 1st belay station, with another climb...
Me on pitch 2 (I combined 2 and 3 with a 70m rope)...
Me on pitch 2 (I combined 2 and 3 with a 70m rope)...
Brenda looking up the route from the 1st belay sta...
Brenda looking up the route from the 1st belay sta...
This has been my favorite rappel, thus far.
This has been my favorite rappel, thus far.
Jason and Victor prepare to rappel.
Jason and Victor prepare to rappel.
the rap anchors
the rap anchors
Rappel window on top of Looking Glass.
Rappel window on top of Looking Glass.
Megan climbing the East Rib on Looking Glass Rock.
Megan climbing the East Rib on Looking Glass Rock.
Jason and Victor
Jason and Victor
Don't forget the summit register!
Don't forget the summit register!
another view of the arch/amphitheater
another view of the arch/amphitheater
Matt near the start
Matt near the start
Looking glass rock - amphitheater and looking glas...
Looking glass rock - amphitheater and looking glas...
view from the lip
view from the lip
Looking glass rock - view of rap station from insi...
BETA PHOTO: Looking glass rock - view of rap station from insi...
the airy rap
the airy rap
Rope Swing.
Rope Swing.

Show All 29 Photos

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 10, 2014
By Nathan Tomlin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2010

The two webpages mentioned above with info on the climb rated it a 5.7. However, I thought it was easier and the same as Wilson Arch Regular Route, which was rated a 5.3, so I'm splitting the difference and calling both a 5.5.
By Zach Allen
Nov 8, 2010

Great route to take beginners on! Spacious, comfy ledges at every belay. Great summit and views, well protected with bolts where you need them. Could possibly place two finger-sized cams on the entire route, but not necessary.
One double rope rap to the ground.

There are several sets of unnecessary bolt anchors on the summit and around the arch, maybe a dozen odd bolts that could be pulled and patched. Was someone practice drilling, or what?
By Swingin
Mar 4, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

What a great day (feel weird calling it a climb). Get your party hoisted up to the first belay and off you go! Some exposed (left/right) friction moves on the second pitch but it's mostly Class 4. Short 15' rap off the south end of the arch to the 'window' - we had 4 people there and it was crowded (and cold in the winter shade). 2x60m ropes to get down from there. All around fun!
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 6, 2011

Really fun and fast climb! Here are a few notes:
-We found one more bolt than listed per pitch (on the first pitch they are usually found on a flat spot/ledge before or after when you would actually want them).
-Bring a 1/2 cam for a mantle just before the first belay (bolt in pretty far below you) There is a nice jug but it felt loose.
-Link pitches 2& 3 with a 70 m rope easily.
-1 70 m rope will get down the rap (just enough rope)
-The crack below the arch leading to the rappel hole would be an INCREDIBLE line!!! But way out of my league.
-The rap sling seemed good. But I wonder why a chain doesn't get left. It would last a lot longer and would NEVER be seen by anyone not up there.
-The rap itself was worth the 3 hour drive. VERY COOL!
-If you look around on the summit you will spot some very random bolts...??? The ledge on the south ridge has a VERY strange line of bolts...??? Who drilled these things and why I wonder.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Mar 6, 2011

Fun, easy route with a REALLY fun rappel. Rappel anchor looked bomber; good webbing with several bolts.

I created a printable PDF beta sheet for the route (including a map).
By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2011

Climbed it with my bro-in-law and our boys. This was my son's 1st multi-pitch climb.
By Adam Roy
Jan 21, 2012

A couple friends and I added a summit register to the top of Looking Glass. If you want to check it out before you rap, it's in a Nalgene under the cairn at the very tip-top of the arch.
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

When I pulled the ropes, the ends of the second 60m met about 30 feet above my head, so the rap must be about 130 feet.
By Brian Aitken
Aug 1, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

Can easily be done in two pitches with a 60 or 70m rope. A 70m rope gets you to the ground for the rappel... no need to double up.
By Josh Schutz
From: Estes Park and Telluride, Colo
Apr 26, 2013

Be really careful about the rattlesnakes. We came across 6 in the rocks right at the start of the first pitch.
By ErinnB
From: Evergreen CO
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

The rope swing was a lot of fun. I highly recommend it!!
By Brandon Ashby
From: Kamas, UT
Aug 13, 2013

This has become a standard for me now when I am in Moab. There always seems to be a beginner climber or two in my group when I make the trip to Moab and I always take them here. This is an easy climb with fantastic exposure. An absolutely thrilling, picturesque rappel back down truly makes for the perfect afternoon adventure. I don't care how hard you climb, if you don't find this fun you aren't into climbing for the right reasons. Never had a bad day with friends at looking glass...
By Nathan Tomlin
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2013

Holy rattlesnakes! Rattlesnakes live in the holes at the base - there were 2 right on the ledge for the first foothold of the climb when we got there. The group ahead of us didn't see them at all, which is really scary because they could come out at any time. A 6 foot non-rattlesnake also lives in the hole a couple feet left of the start.

A few minutes after we got there, the rattlesnakes went back in their holes. We were worried that after the leader went up, they would come back out, and the belayer wouldn't be able to follow (or belay or keep their pants clean). So we ended up free soloing the first 10 feet to a nice ledge free of snake dens where we could belay in peace.

If you leave your bag at the base of the climb, I would move it far away from the rock, but that's just me.

beward of snakes at the start of looking glass roc...
beward of snakes at the start of looking glass rock!
By Patrick Kane
Sep 8, 2014

Take the rattlesnake warning seriously: there were two there in just the small approach from the car.
By cstebbins024
From: Laramie, WY
Oct 10, 2014

The rating is 5.5 but it is probably more like 5.2. However falling to one side or the other would be quite the fall. Watch for snakes as mentioned. Quickly climb up to the first ledge and belay there. Otherwise your belayer will be standing right by the snakes. The climb is fun, rap is better, but the rope swing makes it all worthwhile. After the rap walk up into the amphitheater looking for a ledge with bird poop below it. Rig your rope tightly to your harness and run toward the Looking Glass and jump. Super fun!