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Half Dome Boulder
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Half Dome Corner 
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Snake Dike 

Regular Route  

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type: Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Ian Cotter-Brown
Page Views: 1,358
Submitted By: Remo on Aug 12, 2009
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Steve trying the lower start.

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Description 

Amazing boulder! You can probably guess where the name stems from. Start low on ok edges and reach sharp flake. Set your feet and make a big bump move to good edge. Top-out. Could be an even lower start.


Location 

Half Dome sits up above the Headstone about 50ft. Look for a small patch of trees in the middle of the talus, Half Dome sits tucked away in here.


Protection 

Pads and spotters.



Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Vinny pulling down on the lower start.
Vinny pulling down on the lower start.
Half Dome.  Steep and hard climbing.
Half Dome. Steep and hard climbing.
Half Dome.
Half Dome.
View from the talus.
View from the talus.
Ian on the Regular route.
Ian on the Regular route.
Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 20, 2013
By SteveSchultz
Aug 12, 2009

Looks amazing!!!!! Can't wait to try it!!

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Aug 12, 2009

I think I need to change my underwear.

Looks sexy!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 27, 2009

I checked this guy out again and there looks to be two lines. One would be climbing out right along the slopey rail system, V6-8? The other would be the direct line starting in the middle of the pit and climbing straight out, V8-10+?

By SteveSchultz
Aug 27, 2009

Very cool!! So psyched to try this stuff!!! did you try either of them?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 29, 2009

I tried them both, both were hard, left seemed harder, both had kinda bad fall potential even though they're short. Multiple pads would be best.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 30, 2009

was there chalk on the holds? we know how you struggle without beta or chalk to lead the way :-)

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 30, 2009

True. If chalk and cell phones didn't exist I would be sending V1, V2 max. Thanks for the Quincy beta sweaty, 4 stars for sure.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 30, 2009

Quincy...? I don't know what you're talking about sir.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 30, 2009

Nice Chris you made it up there. Pretty cool huh?
Talking with Steve, it sounds like this boulder will go, hard no doubt! I have yet to give it a serious effort. Soon, so stoked!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 30, 2009

Yeah I don't either Sweaty. (Superb!!!)

Remo yeah I ran into Steve today, he sounded more positive about the project than I felt when I sussed it... 'Course he's strong. Looks like you were out at Dodge today, nice shots!

By Brian Runnells
Aug 31, 2009

This is most definitely not the problem "Asiago" as I mentioned on Steve's blog. Looks hard!

By SteveSchultz
Aug 31, 2009

Very cool problem!! Should be pretty hard too! I'm guessing 8 or 9 but really, I have no idea. it all comes down to one really hard move. The landing wasn't too bad with two organic full pads and two half pads. The right line has a worse landing but bigger holds. Still slopers though!!

By Brian Runnells
Sep 16, 2009

GRIM!

By Brian Runnells
Sep 21, 2009

To me the "squeeze project" is the more fun project to climb on in this general area. I have a very difficult time keeping my legs and feet from hitting both the ground and the adjacent boulder when trying this one which has dampened my enthusiasm for it. Not to mention the holds all feel upside down, but that's a different issue.. Just my two cents.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 17, 2010

Wow this thing doesn't get any easier with the warmer weather, who would have thought. Hard!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 26, 2013

Project no more! Ian sent today!

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Mar 27, 2013

Nice work!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 28, 2013

SWEET!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 28, 2013

Nice Ian! Which holds you start on?

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 28, 2013

Chris, if you look at the picture looking down on Vince, you start with either of those holds and your right uses a good hold out right(not in pic). You keep that right hand on until the hard bump move to the good incut. I'm heading back up tomorrow if you want to join:)

By madisonchoss
Aug 19, 2013

I climbed this from a sit with my hands where Vinny's are (mountainproject.com/v/106800485) yesterday. For me, this added a tough hand move and two foot moves into Ian's start, essentially making the problem 50% longer (and 50% better?). I call this start "The Irregular Route."

Starting lower and to the left may be possible, though the substantially increased dab factor decreaed quality in my mind. I'd like to hear what others think the ideal start position would be.

I also fixed the landing substantially so this can be done with 1 or, for the slightly more timid, 2 pads.

Finally, for those more interested in comparing this with that and talking grades than the physical, emotional, and intellectual challenge presented by boulder problems, to me:

Regular Route: 7/8
Irregular Route: 8/9

It was hot so we will need to put these lines to the test in better weather.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 20, 2013

Nice work Peter!