This is a complex link-up of weaknesses breaking up the monolithic limestone slabs on the north side of the peak. Look for left-trending corners in the center of the wall, which lead to a giant terrace. Follow right'slanting corners from the right end of the terrace, taking climbers to the summit ridge. Follow the ridge left towards the summit. This easy ridge is interrupted by a deep gash, requiring 5.8 climbing to attain the far side, or a tyrolean. Some short steps between the gap and the summit are 5th class.
It's difficult to call the route a classic -- the climbing is a little grungy -- but the experience as a whole is unique, almost otherwordly, and in that sense, it's a mega-classic mountaineering trip.
Descend the route of ascent. Expect a long day in the rain, mud, and limestone. You might even get a view of the ocean, though don't count on it. Swirling mist, and the Freeport mine, will be your most visible companions.
The route includes alot of scrambling, and what is suitable for one party will not be appropriate for the next. For most, a rack of cams and stoppers, with some pins, totalling perhaps 16 pieces, will probably work. This takes into account the fact that you may be leaving gear on the descent. If you find fixed ropes, slings, or other gear, think about how long it might have been there, and the water/moisture it's experienced.
Attractive peak near New Zealand Pass.
Descending the summit ridge, with the Freeport mi...
Steep corners lead up to the summit ridge.
Climbing along the misty ridge.
Expect mud and slop for the approach.
Crossing the gap in the summit ridge via tyrolean.
Traditional garb at the Ilaga market. I traded thi...
Checking out the peak from base camp.
Julian Sands, with one of the Snow Mountains behin...