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Refugium 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jon Allen and Doug Byerly
Page Views: 792
Submitted By: paco on Jun 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Refugium was one of the "new" routes to be put up on Arrowhead in the last few years. Although this route has some nice pitches. I'd strongly disagree with the three stars this route received in the new Gillett guide.

If you come to do this route, make sure you do another route in the same day. This is the only way I could justify the somewhat epic approach. We did Refugium, ran half way down the Summit Ramp and then did Rain Dance starting at its quality pitches.

Much of Refugium's lower half is broken with ramps and ledges. Simul climbing works for you, cruise the first three pitches in one to the base of the 1st 5.8 pitch. From there, you can link the last three pitches in two with a 60m rope. The last three (or two w/60m rope) pitches are the best pitches of the route.

While it's certainly not a three star route. You will be rewarded with over all good rock and some long lost solitude.


Protection 

Standard high peak rack up to #4 Camalot. Maybe doubles of #2 and #3 Camalots for the 1st 5.8 pitch.



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By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jul 23, 2003

19Jul'03 Yes, I agree it had 1.5 pitches of good climbing the rest was a walk-up. Do one of the routes to the west was a recommendation I got.--Ross