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 ADVANCED
Albany Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fool's For A Day T 
Gemini Dreamin' T 
Reelin' In the Fears T 
Tao of Dow, The T 

Reelin' In the Fears 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: strand 81
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: john strand on Jun 24, 2008

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Description 

A true death route, I only list it because the climbing is good and on great rock. This line can be tr'd easily, especially after doing Fool's.The crux is 15' from the top and your last gear is literally out of sight.
I was reeled in hand over hand after falling from the last move and only fell 70' instead of a 100'crater. Thanks guys !

Location 

In the center of the main slab (on the crag's left side)some 4th class. Angle up a tiny seam then move left and go for broke up the slab past a small pocket.Overcome a bulge at the top.

Protection 

Some rp's and gear for a 1" pocket . tree belay


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By twellman
Jul 8, 2012

This route is now bolted (Fools For a Day), although it is still quite spicy. Seven bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor, with crux moves about ten feet above the second to last bolt. Definitely not X anymore, but perhaps PG13 with some big whipper potential.

Fun smeary slab climbing!