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Reel Value 

Reel Value 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 21, 2012
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Kip Henrie just past half-way.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An unlovely-looking route with a chossy start and seemingly way too many bolts; Reel Value grows on you.

The line has got some stellar moves and feels remarkably exposed.

There are two roofs, a mostly-footless bulge, and three good rests. The technical crux is at the top and may prove a bit perplexing at first. The rightward trending first 20 feet or so is the chossiest; once above the initial roof the rock quality improves significantly (but it's still AF—the route needs more traffic to really clean up).


Location 

The right-most line at The Vortex.


Protection 

15 bolts, chain anchors (vertically offset a bit, so you may want a long draw and a short draw).

Fifteen bolts seems like a lot for the length of the route, but once you're on the route they make perfect sense.

When Boyle originally bolted the line there were only 9 bolts. A local climber, however, suffered a injurious ledge fall from the second bolt when a hold broke. Subsequently the route was retro-bolted to mostly eliminate the possibility of injury.



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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Sep 6, 2012

Long with some great moves. 3 great rests before cruxes. 3 cruxes to be exact and the last one the hardest. As I was on the last crux a big spider sat in a hold I needed, ug. I'm not a spider person.