Reel Value 5.11c
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Kip Henrie just past half-way.
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Description An unlovely-looking route with a chossy start and seemingly way too many bolts; Reel Value grows on you. The line has got some stellar moves and feels remarkably exposed. There are two roofs, a mostly-footless bulge, and three good rests. The technical crux is at the top and may prove a bit perplexing at first. The rightward trending first 20 feet or so is the chossiest; once above the initial roof the rock quality improves significantly (but it's still AF—the route needs more traffic to really clean up).
Location The right-most line at The Vortex.
Protection 15 bolts, chain anchors (vertically offset a bit, so you may want a long draw and a short draw). Fifteen bolts seems like a lot for the length of the route, but once you're on the route they make perfect sense. When Boyle originally bolted the line there were only 9 bolts. A local climber, however, suffered a injurious ledge fall from the second bolt when a hold broke. Subsequently the route was retro-bolted to mostly eliminate the possibility of injury.
By KipHenrie From: centerville, utah Sep 6, 2012
| Long with some great moves. 3 great rests before cruxes. 3 cruxes to be exact and the last one the hardest. As I was on the last crux a big spider sat in a hold I needed, ug. I'm not a spider person. |
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