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Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kem Johnson, Mark Axen, Rich Thompson (Direct: Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Randy Mettler)
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,073
Submitted By: Steve Pulver on Jul 1, 2008
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Tricky slab moves just before the anchors on top o...

Description 

Direct start to this route is pretty good. We skipped the sling belay shown in SQ II, combining the final two pitches with a 70 meter rope. This may work with a 60, but if it doesn't you're going to be hating life.


Location 

Direct start is on jugs into a small overhang.


Protection 

If you're like me, then you'll want everything.
A small selection of nuts (including a #1, or an RP for the dihedral in the final pitch), doubles of Camalots sizes .3"-1", and a single #2, and #3.
Maybe even a third .5" Camalot would be good.



Photos of Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Sweet crack at the top of pitch 3.  Great pitch right from the get go.
Sweet crack at the top of pitch 3. Great pitch ri...
mt. lemmon or the sierras??
mt. lemmon or the sierras??
Comments on Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct Add Comment
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By Joe Lee
From: Las Vegas
Jun 8, 2010

This climb is right on par for the Reef. Be prepared for some bold climbing.

A standard rack should be fine. I backed off the direct start but coming in from the left worked out. Might want to bring your machete. We also linked the third and fourth pitches with a 70 meter. I'm not sure if a 60 will reach but I wouldn't risk it.

By Paul Davidson
Jun 8, 2010

First ascent party spent a couple of hours under the roof waiting out a big rain storm. When it finally passed, Kym Johnson was so anxious to get outta dodge that he took off up the slab in rather wet condition. There's more to the story that I can't recall right now.