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Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kem Johnson, Mark Axen, Rich Thompson (Direct: Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Randy Mettler)
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,217
Submitted By: Steve Pulver on Jul 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Tricky slab moves just before the anchors on top o...

Description 

Direct start to this route is pretty good. We skipped the sling belay shown in SQ II, combining the final two pitches with a 70 meter rope. This may work with a 60, but if it doesn't you're going to be hating life.

Location 

Direct start is on jugs into a small overhang.

Protection 

If you're like me, then you'll want everything.
A small selection of nuts (including a #1, or an RP for the dihedral in the final pitch), doubles of Camalots sizes .3"-1", and a single #2, and #3.
Maybe even a third .5" Camalot would be good.


Photos of Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Sweet crack at the top of pitch 3.  Great pitch right from the get go.
Sweet crack at the top of pitch 3. Great pitch ri...
mt. lemmon or the sierras??
mt. lemmon or the sierras??

Comments on Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Davidson
Jun 8, 2010

First ascent party spent a couple of hours under the roof waiting out a big rain storm. When it finally passed, Kym Johnson was so anxious to get outta dodge that he took off up the slab in rather wet condition. There's more to the story that I can't recall right now.
By 1Eric Rhicard
6 days ago

Reefer Direct is the way to go. Way better than traversing the ledge. You could easily combine pitch two and three by placing gear in the horizontal you use to move left. A half dozen shoulder lengths will keep the rope drag down.