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Reef On It! 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Morin & Amanda Peterson
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 2,093
Submitted By: Mike Morin on May 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Garrett Gillest, age 8, loving the climbing at Sta...
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Begin at a block that doesn't appear to be very attached to the wall. Don't be afraid to reef on it though, the block has proven to be quite solid. Make bouldery moves up to a good jug, and get your first clip. Some may appreciate a stick clip, but the route has been climbed numerous times without one. Continue up slightly slabby terrain for two more clips then tackle the gently overhanging headwall. Move through the crux pulling on good jugs until the angle lessens once again and you find yourself at the anchors.


7 bolts.

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On the FA of "Reef On It!"
On the FA of "Reef On It!"
Reef On It.
Garrett Gillest, age 8, loving the climbing at Staunton.
Garrett Gillest, age 8, loving the climbing at Sta...
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By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jun 1, 2013

This climb can be further identified by virtue of climbing in black rock the whole way; trending slightly left on fins, jugs, and alligator skin. You can see the anchors from the base. Lotta fun!

By Coury Ditch
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Hey Mike (or whoever this may concern), the left bolt on the anchor for this route is suspect. The actual bolt wobbles, and the hanger spins a little as well.

I'm not too experienced with bolting rock. I am interested in learning the art, as I have been excited about developing in Staunton since I first heard the rock would be open to the public a couple years ago (Lion's Head!).

Email me at if you're so inclined. I'd love to meet you up there to help out/get beta on bolting and the route development ethic in Staunton.


By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Jun 17, 2013

Hey Coury, I'll take a look at the anchor. Thanks.

Edit: On June 18th I checked the anchor on Reef on It. The bolts are fine, but the left bolt did need to be tightened. Thanks for the info, Coury, I was happy to have an excuse to go up to the park this evening.

I'm glad that you're psyched on the park, but I'm not the guy to mentor you on bolting, sorry. If you want to chat about the ethics of the area, I'm happy to.

By Coury Ditch
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Thanks, Mike! Maybe see you up there sometime. I'll PM you about the ethic issues once I get closer to buying a Bosch/finding some sweet lines up there.

By Tombo
From: Boulder
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really fun! One of the best sport climbs of done of this grade, great rock, strange holds, good bolt placement, and a a few different ways it can be climbed. I didn't think there was a move harder than 5.9, but it really stacks up on you especially if you don't milk the rests. I'd give it a 10- for the consistency.

By Jeremy C
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 13, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first route we did at Staunton. This route is SO good! I placed a medium-sized nut in a slot 10ft off the deck on the way up to the first bolt to avoid a possible broken ankle. A stick clip would definitely feel better. The route has such a fun variety of holds and stays pretty sustained for the most part. Great movements and humbling bolt placements on this beautiful climb. CLIMB THIS ROUTE!