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DescriptionSee Archangel Valley Getting ThereFrom Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer, a small town to pass through. Follow the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to Reed River up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp left turn up the switch back, head up the hill for a few hundred yards. Take the sharp right up a single gravel road, And see the sign Archangel Rd. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. Reed Lakes is on the right side, about 3 miles from where Archangel Road starts. The trail to Reed Lakes is meanders for 1.75-2 miles to the abandoned cabin. This is where the climbing and bouldering starts. Most of the established climbing is in the basin surrounding the abandoned cabin. The Reed Lakes are actually beyond this, accessible by two different trails starting at this point. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Reed Lakes Bouldering and Climbing:
Snowflake 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone
Rise 5.9 Trad, 35 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II The High Dive
Thin As Ice 5.10a Sport, 2 pitches, 130 feet SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone
Featured Route For Reed Lakes Bouldering and Climbing
Rise 5.9 AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : ... : The High Dive
P1: Climb a pitch of moderate slab with spacey pro to a crazy needle of granite standing on end. Two-bolt anchor is just to the right.P2: Follow the slab to the right along the base of the steep headwall to an obvious crack system that will take you to the top.P3: Head up the crack system. About 20 feet off the slab it splits into two nice hand cracks. Follow it to a mouth-like ledge overlooking the incredible scenery. Belay here on two bolts if you'd like, or climb the next sixty feet or so...[more] Browse More Classics in AK |