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Redwood Coast

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Castle Rock 
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Redwood Coast  


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Location: 40.8221, -124.1125 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 222,032
Administrators: Rick Shull, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Aug 3, 2006
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Helen bouldering at Houda Point, Humboldt

Description 

Extending from the San Francisco Bay up to the Oregon border, the Northern coast of California is unique in its climate, laid back atmosphere, and its climbing. It's a bit off the beaten path for most I-5 travelers but the snaking Highway 1 and 101 cling to the coast and tie it all together with breathtaking scenery.

The climbing here is more subdued than many other California or Northwest areas and sees relatively little traffic. Many older routes and bouldering areas have little recorded information which can give the traveling climber a feeling of "new discovery" not found in many areas. Most of all, the climbing here is quite diverse with routes on sandstone, graywacke, limestone, gabbro, granite and quartzite. Where else can you grab some backcountry turns, fire off a route or two, hit the surf for a sesh, pull some highballs and still make the potluck by 6:00?

Getting There 

Getting to the Redwood Coast involves winding roads, no matter which way you are coming from. From the Bay Area or the Oregon Coast follow Highway 101 north or south. From the Northeast (Southern Oregon, Portland or other Northwest locales), follow I-5 exiting in Grant's Pass to Hwy 199 to 101 south. From the East (Tahoe, Sierra, Colorado, etc) find your way to Redding on the I-5 corridor. Take 299 until you hit 101. The Eureka/Arcata area is the population hub of the Redwood Coast. Arcata is a college town and is home to Humboldt State University and has all of the usual amenities found around schools. There is a thriving music and bar scene (5 micro breweries in the county) with action most nights of the week. Gear shops are located in Arcata and Eureka. After a hard send, check out TOMO (click the Eureka/Arcata link for food and lodging) on the Arcata Plaza-Great Sushi!

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

182 Total Routes

['4 Stars',28],['3 Stars',99],['2 Stars',50],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',5],['5.8',10],['5.9',17],['5.10',56],['5.11',36],['5.12',17],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',10],['V2-3',16],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redwood Coast:
She's Got Jugs   V1-2 5     Boulder, 20'   Houda Point : Houda North
Flake Direct    V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Lost Rocks
Karen Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Standard Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 60'   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Purty Mouth   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Land of the Lost : Snag Crag
No Time aka North Crack   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Moonstone Beach : North Rocks
Nighthawk   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Land of the Lost : Pinch Me Wall
Shooter   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Land of the Lost : Pinch Me Wall
Regular Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Ceremonial Rock : North Face of Ceremonial Ro...
100 Crows   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 30'   Land of the Lost : Snag Crag
Lizard Head   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 40'   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Whale Nation   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Patrick's Point State Park : Pacific Ocean Cliff
Bambi Slayer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
Goldrush   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
Karma-Kazi   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Trinity ArÍtes : Visions Wall
Gooseberry   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Trinity ArÍtes : Visions Wall
Dream Theme   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 55'   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Visions Of Impalement   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 100'   Trinity ArÍtes : Visions Wall
Dizzy Dial   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Patrick's Point State Park : Pacific Ocean Cliff
Nightmare   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 60'   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Browse More Classics in Redwood Coast

Featured Route For Redwood Coast
Launch Toast climbs the prominent left arete of the North Rocks.

Launch Toast 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : Redwood Coast : ... : North Rocks
Launch Toast is the prominent arete on the left of the same formation as North Crack. It starts slightly to the right, then moves left to the arete. Moving from the start to the arete is the first crux. Although the climb can be done by staying on the right side of the arete, most climbers stay on the left side until about ten feet below the anchors and then step back around right for the 2nd crux and sustained crimps to the anchor. Also, try toproping the direct start on the arete for a bonus....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Redwood Coast Slideshow Add Photo
California dreaming, Humboldt
California dreaming, Humboldt
The full moon rising over the Trinity Alps viewed from The Land of the Lost.
The full moon rising over the Trinity Alps viewed ...
A misty Humboldt afternoon.
A misty Humboldt afternoon.
Redwood Coast sunset on the way down from LOTL.
Redwood Coast sunset on the way down from LOTL.
Wild azaleas at LOTL.
Wild azaleas at LOTL.
 Pity da Fool, 12c on the Mr. T wall. LOTL
Pity da Fool, 12c on the Mr. T wall. LOTL
A view of the Trinity Alps from the ski approach to The Land of the Lost.
A view of the Trinity Alps from the ski approach t...
The Big Chopper.
The Big Chopper.
Josie on Case Dismissed (5.11b), Land of the Lost
Josie on Case Dismissed (5.11b), Land of the Lost
The Co-op in Arcata, Humboldt County
The Co-op in Arcata, Humboldt County
The Lost Coast.
The Lost Coast.
Joe McDaniel sticks the throw at Moonstone.
Joe McDaniel sticks the throw at Moonstone.
The Alps on the first day of the new year.
The Alps on the first day of the new year.
Tim topping out on Ten Gallon Hat (5.8), Land of the Lost
Tim topping out on Ten Gallon Hat (5.8), Land of t...
Marc going for it on She's Got Jugs.
Marc going for it on She's Got Jugs.
Marc punching for the flash on Humbilly (5.11a), Snag Crag, Land of the Lost
Marc punching for the flash on Humbilly (5.11a), S...
Redwood Coast bouldering... <br /> <br />Climber: Josh Kornish <br />photo credit: Cristine Boles
Redwood Coast bouldering... Climber: Josh Kornish...
Milking the last of the Humboldt corn on June 2,2008.
Milking the last of the Humboldt corn on June 2,20...
Earn your turns for burns. Sunset Spire, December 1st, 2006.
Earn your turns for burns. Sunset Spire, December ...
Karhu enjoying a day a the beach, Houda Point
Karhu enjoying a day a the beach, Houda Point
Jim French on Karma Kazi, 5.11, Trinity Aretes
Jim French on Karma Kazi, 5.11, Trinity Aretes
Marc leading Low Tooth Count (5.10a) on Snag Crag, Land of the Lost
Marc leading Low Tooth Count (5.10a) on Snag Crag,...
TR attempt on Leper Messiah, 13a. So-So Grotto. Fabulous 150 foot route.
TR attempt on Leper Messiah, 13a. So-So Grotto. Fa...
Dry lightning cell that was part of the system that lit up Northern California last Friday and Saturday. This was an unusual storm that hit the coast range with over 3,500 strikes in 18 hours with very little rain. This cell near Lost Rocks in Redwood National Park was doing its best to drop a funnel. It's going to be a long season as crews have not even been able to respond to some of the 500 fires across Mendocino, Humboldt, Trinity and Del Norte counties.
Dry lightning cell that was part of the system tha...

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Comments on Redwood Coast Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 4, 2014
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Oct 24, 2006
A great guidebook for the Redwood Coast is Bigfoot Country Climbing. It is written and illustrated by Paul Humphrey and Eric Chemello and is available at gear shops in Arcata and Eureka. Both of these climbers have worked tirelessly to put up dozens of routes in the region.
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Sep 12, 2012
I guess Land of the Lost is getting popular enough and there are enough routes that I should put all of my route info on MP. I've been waiting to "do it right" with all of the history and photos. It will probably be later in the Fall before I can get it done but if anyone has any route questions feel free to email me.
By Lurker
Mar 10, 2013
Any good gear routes on the North Coast? Yes, I know I'm living in the wrong place. Still curious though. I've done the 1st pitch of Blackbeards Tears at Promontory, and pretty much everything at Moonstone that goes on gear (and isn't x-rated). Is the stuff at Patrick's Point any good? So-So Grotto? Trinity Aretes? Secret splitter granite within Arcata city limits?
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
May 24, 2013
Gnar Gnar at the grotto is one of the best gear routes in the area...
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Jul 30, 2013
Is there any particular reason why there's no page on here for LOTL? if not, would anyone mind if i took the time to make the page and put [non-copyrighted] beta on here?
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jul 31, 2013
Ben, I'm planning to add all of the LOTL crags at some point. I have kept detailed records for most of the routes (the ones I put up and others) from the day I first found the crags but there are a few that I probably don't know about. I'm working out of the area for the summer and all of my notes are in Arcata. It's going to be a big job to add all of the LOTL crags, so maybe I could use some help at some point. PM me if you want.
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Aug 15, 2013
awesome rick, i cant wait to see the photos and what not. i sent you a PM but im not sure if i can get into my old email. email me at bkf59@humboldt.edu and we can exchange numbers. im gonna be up there a lot, and will gladly fill in any gaps in beta/photos you might need.
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 28, 2013
Ben,
I just sent you and email at the above addy...
By mnmain2
Jan 27, 2014
Hey guys. I am going to be camping in Humboldt Redwoods State Park in March and was hoping to get some climbing in. Any guidance or where to go for some bouldering and/or sport climbing? Where is best around this time of year?
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Feb 4, 2014
"It's always best to give credit and respect to our climbing forefathers first." You tell 'em "Misty!
So . . . call them the Jug Hauls Left and Right and not Osteoporosis / Porifera, since Rich Ludwig & I accessed them, cleaned and climbed them first...as a TR, but actually, those ARE pretty creative names and out of respect for Paul's memory, never mind...