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Redwood Coast

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Arcata Comunity Forest 
Carruther's Cove 
Castle Rock 
Cold Spring 
Footsteps Rock 
Goat Rocks 
High Bluffs 
Houda Point 
Land of the Lost 
Lost Rocks 
Luffenholtz Beach 
Marble Caves 
Moonstone Beach 
Natural Bridge / High Rock 
Ossagon Rocks 
Patrick's Point State Park 
Promontory 
So-So Grotto 
Trinity Alps 
Trinity Arêtes 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Ossagon Trail Loop
Great Northcoast MTB ride through Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park with Ossagon trail as highlight. Near Westhaven-Moonstone, California
Pine Ridge Trail
A multi-use trail section with mountain bike specific features - this is a fun ride! Near Willow Creek, California
Section 3
Built specifically for mountain bikes, this is the longest contiguous descent in the entire system. Near Willow Creek, California
Lacks Creek
A mountain bike-specific trail system, part of an 8,000 acre recreation area. Near Willow Creek, California
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Redwood Coast Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.8221, -124.1125 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 101,769
Administrators: Rick Shull, Lurker, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Aug 3, 2006
Forecast:
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You & This Area
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Description 

The Redwood Coast encompasses a large geographic area of northwestern California, bounded by I-5 to the east, Highway 36 to the south, the Oregon border to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Climbing exists on numerous rock types, including sandstone (Promontory, Footsteps, High Bluffs), quartzite (Land Of The Lost), and granite (The Grotto, Trinity Alps).

However, limestone is the real draw of the Redwood Coast, and is the real deal. The Trinity Aretes, Marble Caves, Cecilville Bluffs, Castle Rock, Natural Bridge, and the Caverns are all excellent limestone sport climbing crags hiding in plain view in the wilds of northwestern California. Good limestone can be found year-round; whereas the Trinity Aretes are primarily a summer crag, the Marble Caves and Cecilville Bluffs are best fall through spring. Wherever you go, you are unlikely to see many other climbers, if any. The relative lack of traffic often adds a bit of adventure to the Redwood Coast climbing scene, but it is more than made up for in absence of crowds and quality of climbing.

If bouldering is more your speed, numerous blocs line the beaches from Arcata to Crescent City. Lost Rocks is the crown jewel, particularly in summer when tides are low and access is best. Ossagon, Patrick's Point, Houda Point, and Moonstone offer good bouldering as well.

Arcata/Eureka is the population hub of the Redwood Coast. Arcata is a college town, home to Humboldt State University, and has all of the usual amenities found around schools including a thriving music scene and a number of local breweries. The Bigfoot Country Climbing guide is the only guidebook to the area, and can be found at local Arcata/Eureka outdoor shops. Mountain Project is an excellent supplemental source for new routes and general beta.

Getting There 

Getting to the Redwood Coast involves winding roads, no matter which way you are coming from. From the Bay Area or the Oregon Coast follow Highway 101 north or south. From the Northeast (Southern Oregon, Portland or other Northwest locales), follow I-5 exiting in Grant's Pass to Hwy 199 to 101 south. From the East (Tahoe, Sierra, Colorado, etc) find your way to Redding on the I-5 corridor. Take 299 until you hit 101.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

394 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',68],['3 Stars',193],['2 Stars',99],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',14],['5.7',13],['5.8',24],['5.9',28],['5.10',104],['5.11',67],['5.12',48],['5.13',15],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',17],['V2-3',35],['V4-5',20],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Redwood Coast

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Redwood Coast:
She's Got Jugs   V1-2 5     Boulder, 20'   Houda Point : Houda North
Flake Direct    V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Lost Rocks
North Face (Direct)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Patrick's Point State Park : Wedding Rock
Karen Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Plague of Flies   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Promontory : Exploding Energy Boulder
Standard Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 60'   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Gnar-Gnar   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 140'   So-So Grotto : Main Wall
Whale Nation   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Patrick's Point State Park : Pacific Ocean Cliff
Bambi Slayer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
Gold Rush   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
Dyno-Soar   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Dream Theme   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 55'   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Lost At Sea   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   Promontory : Main Wall
Gooseberry   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Trinity Arêtes : Visions Wall
Visions Of Impalement   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Trinity Arêtes : Visions Wall
The Losers' Club   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Land of the Lost : Three Amigos Wall
Superstitious   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 60'   Patrick's Point State Park : Pacific Ocean Cliff
Reality Check   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   Promontory : Exploding Energy Boulder
M.I.A.    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   Land of the Lost : Three Amigos Wall
Paisano Direct   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Trinity Arêtes : Paisano Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Redwood Coast

Featured Route For Redwood Coast
Rock Climbing Photo: All Marked Up is the obvious dihedral in the upper...

All Marked Up 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Main Wall
Large dihedral on the left side of the main wall. Crux is pulling off the first small ramp. This route is PG13 if you place your first few pieces well, and very R if you don't. At least one person has decked off the low crux. After the crux, climb past 1 bolt on a slab, and pull up into the right-trending dihedral. The route gets pretty wide in sections, but doesn't climb wide. Another excellent trad route, a rarity for the region....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Redwood Coast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: California dreaming, Humboldt
California dreaming, Humboldt
Rock Climbing Photo: Helen bouldering at Houda Point, Humboldt
Helen bouldering at Houda Point, Humboldt
Rock Climbing Photo: The full moon rising over the Trinity Alps viewed ...
The full moon rising over the Trinity Alps viewed ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Redwood Coast sunset on the way down from LOTL.
Redwood Coast sunset on the way down from LOTL.
Rock Climbing Photo: A misty Humboldt afternoon.
A misty Humboldt afternoon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim topping out on Ten Gallon Hat (5.8), Land of t...
Tim topping out on Ten Gallon Hat (5.8), Land of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Redwood Coast bouldering...  Climber: Josh Kornish...
Redwood Coast bouldering... Climber: Josh Kornish...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dry lightning cell that was part of the system tha...
Dry lightning cell that was part of the system tha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wild azaleas at LOTL.
Wild azaleas at LOTL.
Rock Climbing Photo:  Pity da Fool, 12c on the Mr. T wall. LOTL
Pity da Fool, 12c on the Mr. T wall. LOTL
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc leading Low Tooth Count (5.10a) on Snag Crag,...
Marc leading Low Tooth Count (5.10a) on Snag Crag,...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the Trinity Alps from the ski approach t...
A view of the Trinity Alps from the ski approach t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc going for it on She's Got Jugs.
Marc going for it on She's Got Jugs.
Rock Climbing Photo: Northern CA. coast.
Northern CA. coast.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Big Chopper.
The Big Chopper.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bull elk, in Redwood N.P.
Bull elk, in Redwood N.P.
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc punching for the flash on Humbilly (5.11a), S...
Marc punching for the flash on Humbilly (5.11a), S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Earn your turns for burns. Sunset Spire, December ...
Earn your turns for burns. Sunset Spire, December ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Alps on the first day of the new year.
The Alps on the first day of the new year.
Rock Climbing Photo: TR attempt on Leper Messiah, 13a. So-So Grotto. Fa...
TR attempt on Leper Messiah, 13a. So-So Grotto. Fa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Karhu enjoying a day a the beach, Houda Point
Karhu enjoying a day a the beach, Houda Point
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe McDaniel sticks the throw at Moonstone.
Joe McDaniel sticks the throw at Moonstone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josie on Case Dismissed (5.11b), Land of the Lost
Josie on Case Dismissed (5.11b), Land of the Lost
Rock Climbing Photo: Milking the last of the Humboldt corn on June 2,20...
Milking the last of the Humboldt corn on June 2,20...

Show All 31 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Redwood Coast Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 27, 2014
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Oct 24, 2006
A great guidebook for the Redwood Coast is Bigfoot Country Climbing. It is written and illustrated by Paul Humphrey and Eric Chemello and is available at gear shops in Arcata and Eureka. Both of these climbers have worked tirelessly to put up dozens of routes in the region.
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Sep 12, 2012
I guess Land of the Lost is getting popular enough and there are enough routes that I should put all of my route info on MP. I've been waiting to "do it right" with all of the history and photos. It will probably be later in the Fall before I can get it done but if anyone has any route questions feel free to email me.
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
May 24, 2013
Gnar Gnar at the grotto is one of the best gear routes in the area...
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Jul 30, 2013
Is there any particular reason why there's no page on here for LOTL? if not, would anyone mind if i took the time to make the page and put [non-copyrighted] beta on here?
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jul 31, 2013
Ben, I'm planning to add all of the LOTL crags at some point. I have kept detailed records for most of the routes (the ones I put up and others) from the day I first found the crags but there are a few that I probably don't know about. I'm working out of the area for the summer and all of my notes are in Arcata. It's going to be a big job to add all of the LOTL crags, so maybe I could use some help at some point. PM me if you want.
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Aug 15, 2013
awesome rick, i cant wait to see the photos and what not. i sent you a PM but im not sure if i can get into my old email. email me at bkf59@humboldt.edu and we can exchange numbers. im gonna be up there a lot, and will gladly fill in any gaps in beta/photos you might need.
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 28, 2013
Ben,
I just sent you and email at the above addy...
By mnmain2
Jan 27, 2014
Hey guys. I am going to be camping in Humboldt Redwoods State Park in March and was hoping to get some climbing in. Any guidance or where to go for some bouldering and/or sport climbing? Where is best around this time of year?

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