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Redwood Coast
Kelty Gunnison 4.2 Footprint

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Castle Rock 
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Houda Point 
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Trinity Alps 
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Redwood Coast 


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Lat, Long: 40.8221, -124.1125 Map
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Administrators: Rick Shull, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Aug 3, 2006

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Helen bouldering at Houda Point, Humboldt

Description 

Extending from the San Francisco Bay up to the Oregon border, the Northern coast of California is unique in its climate, laid back atmosphere, and its climbing. It's a bit off the beaten path for most I-5 travelers but the snaking Highway 1 and 101 cling to the coast and tie it all together with breathtaking scenery.

The climbing here is more subdued than many other California or Northwest areas and sees relatively little traffic. Many older routes and bouldering areas have little recorded information which can give the traveling climber a feeling of "new discovery" not found in many areas. Most of all, the climbing here is quite diverse with routes on sandstone, graywacke, limestone, gabbro, granite and quartzite. Where else can you grab some backcountry turns, fire off a route or two, hit the surf for a sesh, pull some highballs and still make the potluck by 6:00?


Getting There 

Getting to the Redwood Coast involves winding roads, no matter which way you are coming from. From the Bay Area or the Oregon Coast follow Highway 101 north or south. From the Northeast (Southern Oregon, Portland or other Northwest locales), follow I-5 exiting in Grant's Pass to Hwy 199 to 101 south. From the East (Tahoe, Sierra, Colorado, etc) find your way to Redding on the I-5 corridor. Take 299 until you hit 101. The Eureka/Arcata area is the population hub of the Redwood Coast. Arcata is a college town and is home to Humboldt State University and has all of the usual amenities found around schools. There is a thriving music and bar scene (5 micro breweries in the county) with action most nights of the week. Gear shops are located in Arcata and Eureka. After a hard send, check out TOMO (click the Eureka/Arcata link for food and lodging) on the Arcata Plaza-Great Sushi!


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redwood Coast:
She's Got Jugs   V1-2     Boulder, 20 feet   Houda Point : Houda North
Flake Direct    V4     Boulder, 15 feet   Lost Rocks
Karen Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Patrick's Point State Park : Wedding Rock
Standard Route   5.9     TR, 60 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
She Male   5.10b     Sport, 75 feet   Shooting Gallery : The Boardwalk
No Time aka North Crack   5.10b/c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Moonstone Beach : North Rocks
Regular Route   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Ceremonial Rock : North Face of Ceremonial Ro...
Blackbeard's Tears   5.10+ A2     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Promontory : Main Wall
Urchin   5.10c/d     TR, 60 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Lizard Head   5.10d     TR, 40 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Bambi Slayer   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
Goldrush   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
Karma-Kazi   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Trinity Arêtes : Visions Wall
420 Shadow   5.11c     Sport, 70 feet   Trinity Arêtes : Visions Wall
Dream Theme   5.11c     TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Gooseberry   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Trinity Arêtes : Visions Wall
Visions Of Impalement   5.11d R     Trad, 100 feet   Trinity Arêtes : Visions Wall
Nightmare   5.12a     TR, 60 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Great White   5.12b/c     Sport, 95 feet   Promontory : Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Redwood Coast


Featured Route For Redwood Coast
Looking down the route the next day and yes, that's a clove hitch on a pearabiner.

Blackbeard's Tears 5.10+ A2  CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Main Wall
The 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting the wave and up to poison oak finish. Equalize bushes for anchor or bolt a new 2nd anchor. Often dripping with foggy love....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Redwood Coast Slideshow Add Photo
California dreaming, Humboldt

California dreaming, Humboldt

A view of the Trinity Alps from the ski approach to The Land of the Lost.

A view of the Trinity Alps from the ski approach t...

Earn your turns for burns. Sunset Spire, December 1st, 2006.

Earn your turns for burns. Sunset Spire, December ...

The Alps on the first day of the new year.

The Alps on the first day of the new year.

The Lost Coast.

The Lost Coast.

Josie on Case Dismissed (5.11c), Land of the Lost

Josie on Case Dismissed (5.11c), Land of the Lost

Marc punching for the flash on Humbilly 11a/b. Snag Crag, Land of the Lost.

Marc punching for the flash on Humbilly 11a/b. Sna...

Wild azaleas at LOTL.

Wild azaleas at LOTL.

Redwood Coast sunset on the way down from LOTL.

Redwood Coast sunset on the way down from LOTL.

A misty Humboldt afternoon.

A misty Humboldt afternoon.

 Pity da Fool, 12c on the Mr. T wall. LOTL

Pity da Fool, 12c on the Mr. T wall. LOTL

Marc going for it on She's Got Jugs.

Marc going for it on She's Got Jugs.

The full moon rising over the Trinity Alps viewed from The Land of the Lost.

The full moon rising over the Trinity Alps viewed ...

Looking north to Trinidad Head, Humboldt County

Looking north to Trinidad Head, Humboldt County

Jim French on Karma Kazi, 5.11, Trinity Aretes

Jim French on Karma Kazi, 5.11, Trinity Aretes

TR attempt on Leper Messiah, 13a. So-So Grotto. Fabulous 150 foot route.

TR attempt on Leper Messiah, 13a. So-So Grotto. Fa...

Joe McDaniel sticks the throw at Moonstone.

Joe McDaniel sticks the throw at Moonstone.

Milking the last of the Humboldt corn on June 2,2008.

Milking the last of the Humboldt corn on June 2,20...

The Co-op in Arcata, Humboldt County

The Co-op in Arcata, Humboldt County

Karhu enjoying a day a the beach, Houda Point

Karhu enjoying a day a the beach, Houda Point

Tim topping out on Ten Gallon Hat (5.8), LOTL

Tim topping out on Ten Gallon Hat (5.8), LOTL

Marc leading Low Tooth Count(10a), Snag Crag, LOTL.

Marc leading Low Tooth Count(10a), Snag Crag, LOTL...

The Big Chopper.

The Big Chopper.

Dry lightning cell that was part of the system that lit up Northern California last Friday and Saturday. This was an unusual storm that hit the coast range with over 3,500 strikes in 18 hours with very little rain. This cell near Lost Rocks in Redwood National Park was doing its best to drop a funnel. It's going to be a long season as crews have not even been able to respond to some of the 500 fires across Mendocino, Humboldt, Trinity and Del Norte counties.

Dry lightning cell that was part of the system tha...


Comments on Redwood Coast Add Comment
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By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Oct 24, 2006

A great guidebook for the Redwood Coast is Bigfoot Country Climbing. It is written and illustrated by Paul Humphrey and Eric Chemello and is available at gear shops in Arcata and Eureka. Both of these climbers have worked tirelessly to put up dozens of routes in the region.

By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Sep 12, 2012

I guess Land of the Lost is getting popular enough and there are enough routes that I should put all of my route info on MP. I've been waiting to "do it right" with all of the history and photos. It will probably be later in the Fall before I can get it done but if anyone has any route questions feel free to email me.

By Lurker
Mar 10, 2013

Any good gear routes on the North Coast? Yes, I know I'm living in the wrong place. Still curious though. I've done the 1st pitch of Blackbeards Tears at Promontory, and pretty much everything at Moonstone that goes on gear (and isn't x-rated). Is the stuff at Patrick's Point any good? So-So Grotto? Trinity Aretes? Secret splitter granite within Arcata city limits?

By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Mar 11, 2013

If splitter means cracks, IDK - But, the superb mausoleum in the cemetery is the secret architectural granite gambit in city limits. It's, in my mind at least, the best climbing in town with its arêtes, pinches, edges and moulding, all the way up to the frieze or cornice!
Last time I was there, I was so sad because the nice big trees had been cut down; they used to add an element of cover for our delicately-timed buildering sessions...

By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
2 mins ago

Gnar Gnar at the grotto is one of the best gear routes in the area...