Redtail 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Dan and Pat Sperlock 1989 |
| Submitted By: | John Bradford on Jun 1, 2004 |
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Bryan at the cruxy start...
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Description A fantastic route, long and sustained with thin face moves and an airy finish. Start in the crack and work up right onto the face. This route is located on the Spud Wall, and is directly across from the trail junction between the East face of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire. Two ropes to get down.
Protection 15 bolts to chain anchors. A large camming device can help protect the opening moves. Use a long runner.
Midway up the route, Sudden Pleasure is to the lef...
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By Nathan Fisher
Oct 13, 2005
| I sat and watched someone climb that from Morning Glory, and Redtail looked a blast. |
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 29, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| best 5.11 clip-up at the city |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.11a
| Great route. I found the climbing too inconsistent (the whole top third is only 5.9) to rate this "classic", but still a great route. |
By ktmt
From: Missoula, MT
Nov 15, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b
| Highly recommend! I thought this was stiffer than Sudden Pleasure, which seems barely 5.11, whereas this climb, at lest onsight, felt solid for the grade in a couple of places. The moderate climbing in the upper half is cruise city, absolutely enjoyable.
Can descend with one rope by belaying second up, then rapping to Sudden Pleasure anchors and a second rap to the ground. Works great for firing a bonus lap on Sudden Pleasure. |
By Kevin Volkening
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b
| Agree with the inconsistent nature of the climb, still fun! Dont bother with the suggestion of a piece for the opening moves |
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