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Narrows, Redstone, McClure Pass
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Redstone Pillar 

WI4

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: Larry Bruce & Lou Dawson, 1970s?
Season: Comes in early & can last
Page Views: 3,324
Submitted By: Reese Martin on Dec 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Conditions as of 12/18/13.

Description 

This is another Colorado Classic. It is a great single pitch of pure ice, and it is often chandeliered in the early season.

Protection 

4 to 6 long ice screws will usually do it. A single 60 meter rope will get you down.

Toprope Protection 

There are some slings around brush on the climber's left on top. Bring something long (15') to extend the anchors & reduce rope drag. To get to the top, hike up on the climber's left, then traverse back to the creek bed.

Approach 

Per claramie: park on the downhill side of the Redstone Inn. Walk down that road, past the gate that says "private road / no trespassing". Walk the road for 5 or 10 minutes then turn left when you see the old T-bar ski lift. Walk uphill under that eventually following a creek drainage east to the climb.

Per BJ Sbarra: the Redstone Pillar itself is actually owned by Pitkin County Open Space, and this is the legal access to it.


Photos of Redstone Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Redstone Pillar, January 2004.
BETA PHOTO: Redstone Pillar, January 2004.
Rock Climbing Photo: Conditions, 01-14-12.
Conditions, 01-14-12.
Rock Climbing Photo: My wife climbing the pillar.
My wife climbing the pillar.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shot from 1990.
Shot from 1990.
Rock Climbing Photo: Redstone Pillar.
Redstone Pillar.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top.
View from the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Redstone Pillar with TK, 3-2000.
Redstone Pillar with TK, 3-2000.
Rock Climbing Photo: Redstone Pillar TR.
Redstone Pillar TR.

Comments on Redstone Pillar Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Bruce
Mar 6, 2013

Lou Dawson and I did this route back in the early '70s, I followed it and I think it was the first ascent. Lou is often thought of his wonderful ski first ascent, but his soloing Glenwood icefall left side plus other numerous other solo ice climbs he did back in the '70s would make any mortal weep in fear.
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Feb 8, 2014

Bring extra mittens! Kinda wet one.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2014

Fat and awesome right now.

FWIW, we had three guidebooks, and none of them gave great instructions for parking and the approach. Park on the downhill side of the Redstone Inn. Walk down that road, past the gate that says "private road / no trespassing". Walk the road for 5 or 10 minutes then turn left when you see the old T-bar ski lift. Walk uphill under that eventually following a creek drainage east to the climb.

It's vague if this is "allowed" or not, but the only place marked no trespassing is the sign before the road (which the road is shared by a few houses and the "castle"). If an admin wants to remove this post, go for it.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Feb 25, 2014

This approach is indeed "allowed." Just be sure to walk on the side of the road, and be courteous to anyone you see along the way. The Redstone Pillar itself is actually owned by Pitkin County Open Space, and this is the legal access to it.

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