Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alchemy T 
Anorexic Doughboy T 
Bushwhacker T 
California Weakender T 
Chinese Chicken T 
Compleat Angler, The T 
Dame El Oro T 
Diminishing Returns T 
Double Trouble T 
Fall Line T 
Fingerlings T 
Fire and Sage T 
Fissuremen T 
Full Clip T 
Fun Soup T 
Gateway T 
Geologic Time T 
Gods Must Be Angry, The T 
Gold Rush T 
Guillotine, The T 
Hip to Toe T 
JR Token T 
Landing a Monster T 
Lively Up Yourself T 
Long March, The T 
May Fly, The T 
Midas Touch T 
Monster T 
Mr. Squiggles T 
Muffin Top T 
Out of the Question T 
Out Ridin' Fences T 
Pan Handlin' T 
Purple Pinky Eater T 
Question Air Box, The T 
Redd Alert T 
Redside T 
Reservation Blues T 
River Wide, The T 
Sleepy Hallow T 
Space Between, The T 
Space Mission T 
Steelhead T 
Suzuki T 
Time Bomb T 
Two Step Left T 
Two Step Right T 
U3 T,TR 
U4 T 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 T 
Wengerbanger T 
Winter Sustenance T 
Wondertwins T 

Redside 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 956
Submitted By: adam winslow on Apr 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
June on Redside!

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Dig deep as the difficult tips start to this climb is only the first crux. Difficult to place gear if laybacking this part. Where your techniques transition will dictate the location of subsequent cruxes. Getting your first knee is a relief that doesn't seem to come soon enough. Transitioning from stacking to armbarring is tricky. This climb will work you through every size and manner of big jams.

Location 

This is the gradually widening tips to offwidth/squeeze crack to the right of Wondertwins

Protection 

A little bit of everything from micro cam to #9 Valley Giant. Can be done without the Valley Giant with big enough nuts. Exit right to a nice biner anchor.


Comments on Redside Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Apr 21, 2011

I'd hesitate to call the start tips. It's BD 0.4 or 0.5 sized which is fingers for most... Also you can walk a #6 to within about 10' of the finishing jug. It definitely feels heady to climb above it after giving yourself a walking top-rope for the majority of the route, but is by no means dangerous or really particularly bold as it's just below your feet when you latch the jug.