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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Red's Ruin 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: 1950's
Page Views: 1,001
Submitted By: Paul Deagle on Nov 14, 2012

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Red's Ruin 5.2 Pitch 1 - looking up first 40 or so...

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


Good first pitch for teaching new people to climb. The second and third pitchs were actually pretty fun. If you are in the area like I was, give it a go.

Pitch 1 5.0 PG Climb alcove, passing large tree on the right, continue up to the top, sharing belay ledge with Middle Earth's tree (100 ft).

Pitch 2 5.1 PG Diagonal up on ledges, then up (hollow) face to GT Ledge, again belay at a pine tree (80 ft).

Pitch 3 5.2 PG. Per the Dick Williams guide, "Climb corner for 30ft, passing oak tree to ledge. Traverse left for 10 ft, moving up and left to narrow ledge. From left side of ledge, diagnol up left (40 ft of 4th class runout on 4th class slab) to grassy ledge below short right facing corner". (100 ft) I'm not sure if this is what I did. I think it was but I don't believe the route gets climbed that much so I found a lot of lichen.


Look for the next major crack system about 50' right of Middle Earth. To descend, rap down Middle Earth.


Standard gunks rack. Aliens helpful as always.

Photos of Red's Ruin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from top of pitch 3
View from top of pitch 3

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Apr 8, 2013

While it's a good route for a new 2nd, it's NOT a good route for a new leader. As a well-experienced leader needing a vertical nap, I was simultaneously sleepy and horrified on this route -- very sparse pro. But very easy. Just don't fall.
By Kurtz
Jun 21, 2015

You have to traverse quite far left on P3 after climbing the left-facing corner. Otherwise, you end up on P3 of Snowpatch which has a 5.5 PG crux at the left end of the big overhang. The picture in the back of the Grey Dick is helpful.

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