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Rednekk Justus T 
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Rednekk Justus 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,331
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Sep 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Jesse finding out what sort of justice he is in fo...

Description 

Start either directly underneath the line and go up with hands over the bulge to the ledge. Or start high and right and do some face traverse to gain the ledge. Then start up with fingers with the help of a right arete until it peters out. Go up a pod section with hands and then some more rattly fingers until the chains.

Location 

This is a right-facing face with small splitter crack. It has a plaque at the base.

Protection 

Fingers to a few hands/ tight hands.


Photos of Rednekk Justus Slideshow Add Photo
Cranking hard.
Cranking hard.
Photo by Spencer Li.
Photo by Spencer Li.
"Not gonna need these yellows up there"... Justin Day.
"Not gonna need these yellows up there"....
Plakk.
Plakk.
Sweet milk.
Sweet milk.
Rednekk at the start.
Rednekk at the start.
J. Day twistin', leanin', and smearin'.
J. Day twistin', leanin', and smearin'.

Comments on Rednekk Justus Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2011
By Stewart M. Green
Sep 15, 2006

The actual spelling of the route name is: "Rednekk Justus."
By chris righter
Feb 18, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The plaque at the bottom of this route indicates the rating is 10+++. I think it's more of an 11 - - -.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Feb 19, 2010

First bolts on the old routes and now plaques? I'm feeling the need for a road trip to the canyon armed with a crow bar and a sledge hammer to nip this in the bud before we have a mini Indian Creek on our hands.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Is this way way harder than Keyhole, cuz this looks like such a good line? I was able to flash Keyhole on top rope, but leading it was very taxing for me and I am pretty comfortable on #0.75 ringlocks. Well, maybe not comfy, but I can move pretty well off of them.
By slim
Administrator
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I would call it way way way way way way harder than Keyhole. Also, way way way harder than S-crack. For me, this one feels pretty similar to 'Passion for Pumping' in difficulty, maybe a tad easier. If you have big fingers, it might not be too bad though.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Nov 10, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Would 6 cams in the 0.5 to 0.75 range be enough plus a few #1s to zipper this thing up?
By slim
Administrator
Nov 10, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Maybe a hand sized piece for the roof at the start (if I remember correctly). At the start of the splitter, I think it is #0.4 Camalots, bring a few of these (maybe bring 1 #0.3 Camalot to place low in the splitter, can't remember for sure). It goes pretty quick to an odd size between #0.4 and 0.5 Camalots that orange TCUs work well on. Then some #0.5 Camalots, a few #0.75s and maybe a couple #1s. One piece that I would recommend (and there are people who will scoff at this) is a large piece for the pod, maybe like a #4.5 Camalot (#5 Friend or new #5 Camalot). The last time I did this route, the pod was absolutely buried in shit of some sort, so I couldn't (or perhaps "wouldn't") go as deep into the crack as I would have liked. Having a big piece felt better for laybacking the lip.

Hopefully this helps.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Nov 29, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Thanks for the beta, and wow that sounds like some sustained terrible size. Maybe next spring. I think I am done for winter.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Mar 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Well, I tried to lead this thing today, and it was waaaayyyyy harder than 10 plus would suggest. It was splitter #0.5 Camalot, so off-fingers, and no chance off a good ringlock. I shredded my fingers and yelled take like a girly man several times. A great line that I need to get super strong and try again. P.S. I have done 11b that was way easier and S Crack was also way easier, as was every other 5.10 plus I have ever got on.
By slim
Administrator
Mar 2, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

It may have won the battle, but you'll win the war. Is there still a ton of rat/bat/bird crap in the big pods?
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 7, 2011

Just did this again after a few years, and the key for me was the thigh jam before the end splitter section.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There was some poop in the ow pod but not to much, and I am going back this weekend and my Muiras just got resoled. So I may be able to actually get my toe in the crack instead of just trying to smear up the rock.