Classic, secure, and elegant. These are all words that would aptly describe the climbing on this great line. A destination route to be sure.
Begin up the left side of the pillar which steepens into a moderate offwidth section (5.8, 4-5" piece). Surmount the pillar then follow the bolt line up and left through the steep headwall on good edges/dishes past a short thin section (crux) More moderate terrain leads to a final interesting move before the belay chains.
Start: 20' right of Buckwheat on the belay ledge with the low bolt.
Descent: Rappel the route from fixed anchors with two ropes or alternatively rap over to the Buckwheat anchors with a single rope and rappel from there.
4-5" cam, 12 draws
2 bolt anchor
|By Greg Kuchyt|
Jul 2, 2012
Since this was mentioned on the parent page I will cover it. A 4" piece allows you to perfectly protect what is probably the hardest section of the OW pillar (5.8). A 4.5-5" piece would give you more placement options and probably the ability to bump the piece. If you are comfortable at the grade of this route, you should be fine with the 4" piece but I offer the info all the same.
|By John Lombardi|
Jun 5, 2014
Everything about this route was fun!
The length of the route is definitely not 180', but I don't know how they measure the length of routes, to be honest. We found a comfortable belay ledge at the base of the off-width. You can sling yourself to the first bolt of the A0 route to belay people (assuming no one is on that route).
From that first bolt, the route might be 130'. I was able to repel to the bottom of the off-width pillar with a 70m rope. I then down climbed the pillar for 3-4 ft. Definitely can't toprope it but you can belay from the top - being able to hang 130' for a hour or so lets you really soak in the views!
I'm not sure if the book mentions it, but topping out this route might be a bit sketch. We didn't actually try it, though. Vertebrae may be a bit easier of a top out.