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Sundance Buttress
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Whiteman T 

Redman 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Malcolm Daly, Bill Feigis, Randy Joseph
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Oct 7, 2001

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Description 

Start 30 feet left of Whiteman and climb straight up to the belay at the top of the first pitch of Whiteman. Bill Feigis drilled the first bolt in a brutal rainstorm, on lead, from a stance. I've have never seen anything like it, before or since. Bill left for Iowa the next day and couldn't complete it, so Randy Joseph and I came back the next week and did it.


Protection 

A couple of bolts to clip, but bring small wires, too. Cams are useful at the bottom.



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By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 17, 2003

With all due respect, this description seems a bit misleading. Unless we did it completely wrong, you actually start ON the first pitch of Whiteman, but after 15 or 20 feet you move left into the obvious and beautiful left-facing undercling corner. This corner eventually straightens out to vertical, and ends; then you move up and right to the crux moves past the bolts, and the anchor on Whiteman. You can get a medium stopper and an RP between the bolts (strenuous), and I would recommend bringing a FULL rack for the lower corner.Also worth noting is that the most recent guidebook gives this pitch an R rating. I'm not entirely convinced it deserves it, but it does pack a little spice.The same guidebook also calls this pitch a variation to Whiteman, but it only shares a couple moves, if that.With all that said, I think this is an outstanding independent pitch.

By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2003

I guess it's been way too many years since I've been up there. I'd forgotten that theys actually begin at the same place. Maybe that's why we spotted the route in the first place. Don't remember too much about the first half of the pitch. It just felt like regular climbing. Regardless, it's a teriffic pitch.

By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Apr 27, 2005

It looks a bit improbable from the ground, but there is a direct start (indpendent of Whiteman) that goes straight up into the hanging corner. The moves are pretty moderate (great edges)and actually protectable with a nut or small cam.

By Ian
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 6, 2011

I got on this route thinking it was Whiteman, doing the direct start. The gear was spicy until the dihedral, but manageable. The offset nut I placed at the crux seemed iffy at the time, but it held the fall. It would have been nice if the second bolt was clippable before pulling the crux.