This is a route that everyone can enjoy. It starts thin with shallow, two finger pockets for the first 20 feet until you gain access to a crack. Climb the crack which widens from hands to off-width until you come to the business of the route which continues straight up the overhanging arete. The redpoint crux for me was clipping the anchors because of the pump.
This route is located just to the right of El Guapo, a 5.12 that starts with a small roof right off the ground. It is very easy to spot as the name implies. It follows a big red line.
This route may have gotten slightly harder over the last 9 years. There is a big move off of a deteriorating hold that accesses the arete. I was able to do this in '99, but couldn't last time I tried! (maybe I'm in worse shape, who knows?).
By Jared LaVacque Administrator From: Anchorage/Grand Junction May 28, 2009