Redgarden - Tower One Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the...
Tower One is the obvious pointy summit of the upper Redgarden Wall
. It is probably the only summit in Eldorado Canyon
which can be precisely pinpointed with a single finger :) when on top. This section of Redgarden Wall
will include routes on Tower One. This will be demarcated by a line connecting West Chimney to The Dirty Deed going all the way to Ruper
including that terrain above the Lower Ramp.
The routes in this section certainly rank with some of the longest and finest of Eldorado Canyon
. There is more to choose for the moderate climber. Some of these lines may help your spirit soar. For many, these routes hold a special place in the climbers' hearts. One down side to this is that the most popular or famous may develop queues, so plan accordingly.
Some of the best lines here include: the glorious Icarus
, 5.6 s; the brilliant Ruper
, 5.8 s; Alice in Bucketland
, 5.8+ s; the ever-popular route, The Yellow Spur
, 5.9 to 5.10b; Italian Arete
, 5.9 s; Grand Giraffe
, 5.10a; the airy Rosy Crucifixion
, 5.10a s; Art's Spar
, 5.10c; Superspar
, 5.10c; Super Slab
, 5.10d; Psychosis
, 5.10d s; Vertigo
, 5.11b; Doub-Griffith
, 5.11c s; Ignition
, 5.11d; Mellow Yellow
, 5.11d s; Wild Kingdom
, 5.12a; Apple Strudel
, 5.12a/b s.
One thing to consider here is that lines that face west here do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm. Then, for a short time, it may be difficult to distinguish features above you.
It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete
or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney
rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo
rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge
. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall
around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.
To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper
to Super Slab
you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2
. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket
Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge
. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove
area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder. For routes on Tower One's west face, you likely will go to the area below Yellow Spur
's start and 3rd-4th class up a short bit of rock to a ledge system. From here, you will find your route moving left or right on this ledge. Finally, it is possible to ascend a route below the Lower Ramp
to gain this same ledge.
: watch out for rattlesnakes, especially near the stairs.
Weather station 0.2 miles from here
65 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',2]
Classic Climbing Routes in Redgarden - Tower One
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Redgarden - Tower One
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Redgarden - Tower One:
Icarus 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R Trad, 3 pitches
Ruper 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 6 pitches
Super Slab 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 4 pitches
Art's Spar 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 4 pitches
Psychosis 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 210'
Superspar 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 4 pitches
Vertigo 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 4 pitches
Ignition 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Mellow Yellow 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Redgarden - Tower One
The Yellow Spur 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: ... : Redgarden - Tower One
This is one of the most popular routes in Eldo, and for a good reason. It is long, not too sustained, and a beautiful direct line. The climbing is all pretty straight forward. The 5.10 variation on the second to last pitch is kinda stiff for .10a, but is really well protected on bolts. The last pitch is runout but easy. The direct start is not too bad, more of a high boulder problem than anything, although I had a friend who sprained his ankle on it once. P1 direct. Scramble onto it and arr...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 5, 2006
The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the circumstances I was not willing to trust my life to, "it's probably okay".
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2007
WARNING!!! The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable.
A bolted rappel anchor was installed near this tree on 8/21/06, after approval by the Eldorado Fixed Hardware Review Committee. See Photo, Photo, Photo for details.
By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Apr 7, 2008
Vertigo Rap beta:
Once on the upper ramp walk to Chockstone Chimney route. Walk about 15 higher and begin looking over the edge for a small tree about 20 below the rim. This sits between a small saddle of the top of the upper ramp and a large rock out cropping. Down climb to the tree. Looking at the wall look right about 15 for the painted bolts and chain. 2 single rope raps gets you to the Yellow Spur ledge.