L to R R to L Alpha
Tower One is the obvious pointy summit of the upper Redgarden Wall. It is probably the only summit in Eldorado Canyon which can be precisely pinpointed with a single finger :) when on top. This section of Redgarden Wall will include routes on Tower One. This will be demarcated by a line connecting West Chimney to The Dirty Deed going all the way to Ruper including that terrain above the Lower Ramp.
To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder. For routes on Tower One's west face, you likely will go to the area below Yellow Spur's start and 3rd-4th class up a short bit of rock to a ledge system. From here, you will find your route moving left or right on this ledge. Finally, it is possible to ascend a route below the Lower Ramp to gain this same ledge.
Per dlm: watch out for rattlesnakes, especially near the stairs.
60 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Tower One
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Tower One:
Icarus 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R Trad, 3 pitches
Ruper 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 6 pitches
Ruper to Grand Giraffe 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Alice in Bucketland 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R Trad, 2 pitches
Body Tremors 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
The Yellow Spur 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 6 pitches
Grand Giraffe 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 5 pitches
Three Old Farts Young at Heart 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Art's Spar 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches
Super Slab 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 4 pitches
Psychosis 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 210'
Superspar 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 4 pitches
Vertigo 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 4 pitches
Doub-Griffith 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 3 pitches
Much Slater (left variation) 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a X Trad, 2 pitches
Mellow Yellow 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Ignition 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Apple Strudel 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Sport
Mellow Fellow 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Grade III
To RP or not to Be 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a X Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Redgarden - Tower One
Superspar 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Tower One
This is a combination of the first two pitches of Super Slab, and the second two of Art's Spar. The first pitch is a .10c undercling flake with decent holds, yet still pumpy climbing. Above the pitch traverses left along a line of pins over nebulous terrain. The second and third pitches can be combined with a two hundred foot rope to a belay at the base of a famous offwidth called Grand Giraffe. The last pitch is the crux, it is rated .10c in most guidebook...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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