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L to R R to L Alpha
The upper or left section of Redgarden Wall is contained here and includes Lumpe Tower, Middle Tower, and the Hot Spur. It is characterized by generally by somewhat lower-end difficulty routes with more broken rock in sections. Protection and route-finding skills are mandatory here. The routes remain moderate in length but definitely have a pleasant feel of adventure.
To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can hike either around either the L of the The Whale's Tail or you continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder, and find your route. The obvious large chimney a short way above the ladder is West Chimney.
47 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Lumpe to the top:
Swanson Arete 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches
Rewritten 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches
Rebuffat's Arete 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Green Slab-Original Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
Waiting Room 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
The Zot Face 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
The Great Zot 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches
The Green Spur 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Green Slab Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 4 pitches
Darkness 'til Dawn 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Grandmother's Challenge 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
The Grand Course 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches
The Green Hornet 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Rabbits From Hats 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Silver Raven 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Paris Girl 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Rewritten 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...
This is another excellent classic on Redgarden. Six pitches takes you to the summit of the Middle Buttress via Rebuffat's Arete. Start at the base of the West Chimney below the Middle Buttress about 15 feet left of an alcove.P1 is a steep start but only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). There are two cracks starting here. The thinner crack on the right is The Great Zot (8+) and is one of my favorite 5.8s in Eldo. Take your pick.P2: Climb an easy pitch up to the Red Le...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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