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Redd Alert 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pat MacCarthy, Jeff Wenger, 200(?)
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Jun 19, 2012

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Wally Fox punching it.

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Stout! This route is the harder version of Monster, but has an easier grade. (hmmm...) In any case, it's a super-aesthetic splitter that looks like it should be straight-forward fingers. It kind of is. If by "straight-forward" you mean thin and very powerful locks that are yet to be comfortized by the countless ascents seen by other, more popular finger cracks. (on my first lead go, my right index finger went numb for five minutes)

Like Monster, once you've punched through the short, lower crux, you've just got to keep it together through a couple more bouldery moves and it's in the bag. Expect some airy, funky climbing up high before the chains.

Location 

In between Long March and Tawtnak Tiichem. (almost certainly butchered the spelling on that!) Look for the obvious, likely chalkless, aesthetic splitter to a ledge about 25' up.

Protection 

2-3 purple TCUs, many blue TCUs (6-8 would not go unused), 2-4 yellow, and a couple orange. Singles up to 2" will do it from there. (moving off the ledge above the crux is best protected by two blues, so save 'em!)


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