|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1500', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Paul Ross John Porter ..May 1972|
|Submitted By:||USBRIT on Jan 17, 2010|
|Comments on Redcoats Resurrection||Add Comment|
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Nov 24, 2014
|Paul Ross and John Porter: That was a proud route you guys did. Must have been quite the adventure!|
By Philippe Marcotte
Feb 19, 2016
After 2 years dreaming about this route I finaly sent it during 2015 summer...
The approach is complex to say the least... ride a bike at night with a headlight, a big pack and an inflatable paddle board. Crossed the quiet river and slept a few hours to Wake up at sunrise. One hour walk to get to the base.
Started at 8:00, pitch 1 was pretty loose with rocks fall everytime I touched them.Slowly climbing to the right into a corner and onto a ramp. Pitch 2 traverse right and a little down to come back up thru trees and rocks to another dual corner. Pitch 3 going up those two corners and aiming right again thru a wide trees and forest ledge. Pitch 4 leaving the trees and getting more into the rock face, going right Under a small roof then left traversing onto a ramp with a few hard to protect moves to a final turn right onto another forested ledge. Pitch 5 going up in trees and grass on easy ground without protection and up on a flat spot with 2 bolts (surprise !). Pitch 6 going up above the bolts and into a 10 feet wide channel with water dripping from la Pomme d'or. Then at the end of this corridor up on the left corner to a small chimney. Pitch 7 going straight up into a dark diehdral to the left of the Pomme d'or and to a few more steps on the right to reach the final pitch. Pitch 8 was harder than I expected with an offwidth crack in a sustained right facing corner. Difficult to protect, don't even expect to put a #5 there or big bros. A few pro in thin sheets, very careful with loose blocks stuck in the crack but too dangerous to sling.
I got on top at 8pm near a big white birch, dehydrated but with a huge feeling of accomplishment of a long time dream. Yes it took 12 hours and no it's not that long or difficult but very hard to read and find the appropriate route on this amazing wall...
We took some yellowish water from the source and started walking left in the Sunset. We came to a stop afraid to drop in the dark and slept in the middle of the forest waking up shaking every ten minutes. We started walking again at 5am going in a circle to the left until we reached the tree corridor down... we eventually came across some very old fixed rope, please don't use them, they end suddenly in the middle of a rappel... We had to do 2 or 3 rappel and got to more bushwack down. We came back by the river at 11:00am, paddled across, biked out and left the park before 13:00...
Stop to Wonder if you can do it, just Do it !
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Feb 20, 2016
|Well done Philippe and your partner... Sounds as big as epic as our first ascent 44 years ago.... First we did not place any bolts ..so must have been a previous ascent to yours. We had to slog up the river side from that dam south of the crag ... seemed a long way as the shore was covered in logs .we reached the summit just before dark .. so as you spent a cold bivy as there was still some snow in the woods . Then we bushwhacked back down through the woods to the south .. we made one short rappel over an outcrop but it was desperate going with fallen trees etc.. lost my watch !!Was very glad to find the river and then follow back to that dam ..Again well done... All The Best Paul Ross ... now back in UK.|