Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Mont de l'Equerre
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Redcoats Resurrection T 
Renaissance T 

Redcoats Resurrection 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Ross John Porter ..May 1972
Page Views: 1,727
Submitted By: USBRIT on Jan 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
A). Redcoats Resurrection.1500' 5.9. B).Site of th...

Description 

Starts at the toe of the buttress.

The first pitch was dangerously loose ,after that the rock improved. Take the easiest line over and around the gigantic steps to the summit.

The final pitch is along a knife edge ridge.

This was the first ascent of this crag, the approach was long walk from a lower dam along the south side of the river.The sides of the river was covered in logs which added to the difficulty underfoot . The first ascent was completed at dark ,a cold bivy on the top and a difficult bush whack back down the left side of the crag back to the river.
Just right of the climb on the first ascent the climbers were impressed by a massive 1000' waterfall. Ross mention to a NH friend Kurt Winkler that if this waterfall freezes it would be the most spectacular ice climb in the Eastern America's. Indeed it is as Winkler and friend traveled up the next winter and climbed the now very famous ice climb The Pomme D'Or.

Location 

Mont de L'Equerre is on the left (south) side of the valley .

Protection 

Normal rack.


Photos of Redcoats Resurrection Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down in the middle of pitch 8 !
Looking down in the middle of pitch 8 !
Rock Climbing Photo: Clean shot 2015
Clean shot 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: 2015 Summer shot
2015 Summer shot

Comments on Redcoats Resurrection Add Comment
Show which comments
By LamontagnedeGatineau
Nov 24, 2014

Paul Ross and John Porter: That was a proud route you guys did. Must have been quite the adventure!
By Philippe Marcotte
Feb 19, 2016

After 2 years dreaming about this route I finaly sent it during 2015 summer...

The approach is complex to say the least... ride a bike at night with a headlight, a big pack and an inflatable paddle board. Crossed the quiet river and slept a few hours to Wake up at sunrise. One hour walk to get to the base.

Started at 8:00, pitch 1 was pretty loose with rocks fall everytime I touched them.Slowly climbing to the right into a corner and onto a ramp. Pitch 2 traverse right and a little down to come back up thru trees and rocks to another dual corner. Pitch 3 going up those two corners and aiming right again thru a wide trees and forest ledge. Pitch 4 leaving the trees and getting more into the rock face, going right Under a small roof then left traversing onto a ramp with a few hard to protect moves to a final turn right onto another forested ledge. Pitch 5 going up in trees and grass on easy ground without protection and up on a flat spot with 2 bolts (surprise !). Pitch 6 going up above the bolts and into a 10 feet wide channel with water dripping from la Pomme d'or. Then at the end of this corridor up on the left corner to a small chimney. Pitch 7 going straight up into a dark diehdral to the left of the Pomme d'or and to a few more steps on the right to reach the final pitch. Pitch 8 was harder than I expected with an offwidth crack in a sustained right facing corner. Difficult to protect, don't even expect to put a #5 there or big bros. A few pro in thin sheets, very careful with loose blocks stuck in the crack but too dangerous to sling.

I got on top at 8pm near a big white birch, dehydrated but with a huge feeling of accomplishment of a long time dream. Yes it took 12 hours and no it's not that long or difficult but very hard to read and find the appropriate route on this amazing wall...

We took some yellowish water from the source and started walking left in the Sunset. We came to a stop afraid to drop in the dark and slept in the middle of the forest waking up shaking every ten minutes. We started walking again at 5am going in a circle to the left until we reached the tree corridor down... we eventually came across some very old fixed rope, please don't use them, they end suddenly in the middle of a rappel... We had to do 2 or 3 rappel and got to more bushwack down. We came back by the river at 11:00am, paddled across, biked out and left the park before 13:00...

Stop to Wonder if you can do it, just Do it !
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Feb 20, 2016

Well done Philippe and your partner... Sounds as big as epic as our first ascent 44 years ago.... First we did not place any bolts ..so must have been a previous ascent to yours. We had to slog up the river side from that dam south of the crag ... seemed a long way as the shore was covered in logs .we reached the summit just before dark .. so as you spent a cold bivy as there was still some snow in the woods . Then we bushwhacked back down through the woods to the south .. we made one short rappel over an outcrop but it was desperate going with fallen trees etc.. lost my watch !!Was very glad to find the river and then follow back to that dam ..Again well done... All The Best Paul Ross ... now back in UK.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!