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Sit start from good holds under a low roof, fire out to the lip with the right hand and then work out left and up the face to the arete. try to avoid ferns and moss as you top out
As you appraoch the den it's in the back corner or the large bouler on your left. It starts from a sit under a low roof, the cliff will be at your back.
pads and a spotter, getting onto the arete is heady. You will want a spotter to move your pads so you can jump off from the lowest (8 ft) spot on the boulder
Mike Pulling off the ground.
The very important heel hook.
Mike pondering the perplexing upper parts of red.
Owen Mcabe hitting the first sloper on Red
a good shot of the whole problem. Owen Mcabe climb...
Owen sticking the first move which is surprisingly...
From: Concord, NH
Apr 21, 2007
It looks like the first face hold coming out from the roof has broken. It still looks useable though a little harder now.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 24, 2012
rating: V7 7a+
much better than it looks! improbable and tricky beta... loved it!
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 23, 2013
rating: V7 7a+
As Lee stated, this climb has a really interesting combination of moves and packs quite a lot into a short space. That part I like.
The part I don't like is that for the starting moves, you are literally six inches off the ground and the dab potential is high. If you are wearing a chalk bag (perhaps to chalk up for the techy arete moves up high), it will be touching the ground through the start.
This climb is solid v7 if you start with your feet down low. If you start with your left foot already on the heel hook, it is likely a full grade easier.