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Thanks to James for Photo
The climb start somewhat casually. Then the crack narrows to tips and widens again to fingers. Good footwork is essential in the upper parts. Many say that this climb is easier than Butterballs.
Shares start with Meat Grinder. Breaks left after 20 feet.
Gear up to 2 but mostly small.
Feeling good after my redpoint
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2011
Really cool pitch! Good rests right before you jump into the business and would be C1 if you did have to aid through any part. No reason to wait so jump on this pitch! If you needed any extra motivation, I thought it was a little easier than it looked. Good, albeit small feet chips around the crack.
Take maybe 1 or 2 blue alien size. Most of the business is yellow alien to .5 camalot then one or two .75s at the end and maybe #1 if you want (the climbing is a bit easier after the jug hand jam to finish the crux). If you were to take triples of anything, probably yellow alien to .5 size. You can place nuts in spots too... if you want to hold on that long to do it!
Anyone know what the deal is with linking up the .12 to the left then jumping right into the seam and past the bush to finish on this route? Looks like it's been done and looks cool too!