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Deface Crack 
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Inspired and Perspired 
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Red Warrior 
Wide Boy 

Red Warrior 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 19, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Red Warrior 5.9+
Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting

Description 

A mostly hands- to thin-hands corner crack, with a short section of fingertip-width. The jamming is fun, a bit of liebacking is helpful, and there are face features here and there to make plugging the gear a bit easier.

Near the top, one side of the crack is pretty rough, making cam placement a bit tricky, and if you're one of those no-tape masochists...good luck.


Location 

This left-facing, corner crack is located in the same alcove as Deface Crack and Wide Boy. It shares anchors with Deface Crack; the anchor isn't visible from the ground directly beneath the crack because it is set back a bit, over a ledge at the top of the crack.

Looking down, 500 W street in Saint George is just slightly west. The belay area is large, flat, and well-used so it should be hard to miss.


Protection 

Mostly hand-sized. I used several #2.5 Friends with one or two #3 Friends. I also used a #2 Camalot C3.

The anchor is above a ledge and consists of 3 bolts and hangers with (smallish) chain from two hangers joined with a single quicklink, and webbing from the 3rd hanger joined to the chains' quicklink with another quicklink.



Photos of Red Warrior Slideshow Add Photo
hangback
hangback
Cassie leading the red warrior.
Cassie leading the red warrior.
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By Jared R
Feb 5, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun route with the crux being a lieback section. I TRed it and thought it was harder than Deface Crack.

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Definitely harder than Deface Crack. The crack gets very thin and there aren't any rests like Deface. So you must keep on chugging along!