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Red Wall
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Red Wall 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 2,376
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Jan 3, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Climbers on the second pitch of Red Wall moving to...

Description 

Gave this a "Great" rating just for P1. P2 is okay. Can rap from the top of P1 with a 60 meter rope.

P1: Start to right of a large shoulder of rock and traverse up and left on little pro to the bottom of the dihedral and a bolt. Continue up the dihedral past another bolt (5.7) and find bolted anchor with chains a little left of the top of the dihedral. 30 meters.

P1 var: Make a direct start in a kind of alcove below and slightly left of the dihedral (Photo). This is a higher quality start if perhaps a bit more spice-y.

P2: Climb up while trending slightly right through black rock with some pro; watch for looseness. Follow grassy ledge or ramp - initially steep - up and right to find above a right facing corner or slot and ascend it. Make the first couple moves into the corner and clip the now revealed bolt on the right. The route continues straight up the corner, passing to the left of a large bush and then up to the top.

P2 var courtesy of kevinnlong: If you go straight up from the belay - left of the black rock - to the roof and traverse right to the corner, then P2 is quite good. The traverse right is well protected, has great rock / position, and feels like solid 5.8.

P2 alternative as shown in the 1985 topo: Traverse right over to Spiderman's P1 bolted anchor and finish on the second pitch of Spiderman.

Location 

See this Photo. Locate a large right facing dihedral which starts about 30 feet up from the ground.

Protection 

Standard rack up to 2 inches. Two bolts on P1 and then a bolted anchor with chains. P2 has one hidden bolt which appears to be the inferior Star Dryvin sleeve-and-nail style.


Photos of Red Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Direct start to Red Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Direct start to Red Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Hufnagel and Bertrand Gramont's beta for Redw...
Eric Hufnagel and Bertrand Gramont's beta for Redw...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jessi on the first pitch of Red Wall.
Jessi on the first pitch of Red Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Hufnagel and Bertrand Gramont's topo from 198...
Eric Hufnagel and Bertrand Gramont's topo from 198...

Comments on Red Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By dameeser
From: denver
Dec 31, 2009

We were there the other day, great day for climbing. Just wanted to let everyone know that on the climb Red Wall there is a tv size boulder just above the last belay ledge on pitch 2 that is loose. Be careful.
By Bob Broilo
From: Socorro, NM
Jan 5, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I prefer going right to the Spiderman anchor and then up for P2. One can place enough gear (I think I got in 5 pieces once) to make it pretty safe but it takes time and usually I just put in one or two.

Going straight up from the Red Wall anchor can be loose and unpleasant, but there are bolts.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jan 6, 2010

Thanks for posting the topo, Bob! I have added some comments to it.
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

About 20 feet up the second pitch is a prominent bulge/roof with an obvious (chalked) seem underneath that leads to the climber's right towards the corner. Completing this traverse was very nice with great rock and position and felt like solid 5.8. It is well protected and is much better than going up the brushy gully. If you go straight up from the belay (left of the black rock) to the roof and exit right to the corner, then P2 is quite good.
By Karl Kiser
Jan 31, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The direct start is the better climb. It is also better to think of the climbing as a bit harder than merely 5.7.

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