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Red Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air France S 
Fire Cracker S 
Fledgling T 
La Sombra (aka Lopsy Lou) S 
Left Wing T 
Leisure Sport S 
Lucid Fairyland S 
Lucid Fairyland (5.8 var.) S 
Molotov Cocktail S 
Narcolepsy Nightmare S 
Phase Dance S 
Red Wall T 
Spiderman T 
TNT S 
Trunk Monkey T 

Red Wall  


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Location: 34.0045, -106.9885 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,598
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Red Wall. Photo and description by S...

Description 

Red Wall is the tallest cliff at Socorro Box, about 170' tall. It faces southwest and gets sun from late morning to late afternoon. About 15 climbs are on Red Wall- some are decent moderate sport climbs, and some trad climbs. Many of these stop about halfway up, but a few lines continue all the way up. In general, the 2nd pitches (other than "Big Red Roof") are not worth it; the rock is less good, the climbing easier and most of the 2-pitch climbs require a walk off if you do not have two ropes. The Corner Block, at the left end of Red Wall, hosts 5 more routes too. Despite its height and fun climbing, Red Wall is less popular than some of the other cliffs nearby, perhaps because of incomplete info and that many older climbs require gear to supplement bolts for protection.

As with the rest of the Box, the rock looks suspect but is quite solid.

Getting There 

This is the big cliff on the East side of the Box Canyon. Hike north from the parking area about 300 yards; you could also park off US-60, which is closer. To get to the base of the climbs, it is easiest to follow the trail up near the Red Wall's left side (near the Corner Block -a 40' boulder with bolted lines on it), rather than going straight up the slope.

Climbs, left to right (with lots of help from Karl Kiser) 

Fledgling (5.8, bolts + gear, anchor shared with Left Wing)
Left Wing (5.9+, bolts + gear)
Air France (5.11c, bolts + gear, optional 5.8 trad 2nd pitch)

These climbs share a 2-bolt anchor, or you can continue to the top of the cliff on the 2nd pitch of Hawk's Nest:
Hawk's Nest (5.7, 5.7, 2 pitches, trad)
Gun Powder (5.10c, trad)
TNT (5.11+, bolted)

Molotov Cocktail (5.11a, bolted, anchor shared with Fire Cracker)
Fire Cracker (5.10, bolted)
Big Red Roof (5.10b, 5.11a, 2 pitches, bolts + gear, start shared with 'Diagonal')

These climbs share a 2-bolt anchor, or you can continue to the top of the cliff on the 2nd pitch of Red Wall:
The Diagonal (5.9R, 2 bolts + gear)
Earwig (5.10-, 2 pitches, 1st pitch: bolts + several pieces, 2nd pitch: 5.7 mixed bolts/gear, same as Red Wall)
Red Wall (5.7, bolts + gear, 2 pitches)

Spiderman (5.8, 5.6, 2 pitches, bolts + gear)
Phase Dance (5.11a)
Unknown (5.10, bolts + gear, anchor shared with 'Monkey Business')
Monkey Business (5.11a, bolts + gear)
Narcolepsy Nightmare(?) (5.10, all bolted; also a bolted 2nd pitch prob. not worth doing)
La Sombra (aka Lopsy Lou) (5.9, extension to 5.8 var. of Lucid Fairyland, all bolted)
Unknown (5.8 variation to Lucid Fairyland, all bolted)
Lucid Fairyland (5.10, all bolted)
Leisure Sport (5.8/5.8+, all bolted, short)
Trunk Monkey (5.8, bolts + gear)

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.6 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Red Wall:
Red Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Spiderman   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
Fire Cracker   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   
Molotov Cocktail   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Red Wall

Featured Route For Red Wall
Eric Hufnagel and Bertrand Gramont's topo from 1985 for Red Wall and Spiderman.

Red Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NM : Socorro Area : ... : Red Wall
Gave this a "Great" rating just for P1. P2 is okay. Can rap from the top of P1 with a 60 meter rope.P1, 5.7, orig start: Start to right of a large shoulder of rock and traverse up and left on little pro to the bottom of the dihedral and a bolt. Continue up the dihedral past another bolt (5.7). Pretty good gear placements will supplement below, between, and above the two bolts. Find bolted anchor with chains a little left of the top of the dihedral. 30 meters.P1, direct start: Start in a kin...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Red Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Some two-pitch trad / mixed routes on Red Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Some two-pitch trad / mixed routes on Red Wall.

Comments on Red Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jan 4, 2010
From the top of the wall, descend by either
  • rap where shown in this Photo; awkward start; two raps with a 60 meter rope will work;
or
  • walk off including short & easy downclimb at far climber's right of wall.