Red Venus  5.6

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Stewart Green and Brian Shelton Submitted By:  Anna Moore on Jul 15, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Cleaning up the anchor atop "Red Venus".

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Description 

Belay on the slab. Climb up to the left to a bolt, the first bolt is way up there, but the section getting to it mostly seems like Class III hiking. (i.e., it's pretty simple) After you get to the first bolt climb right over a couple shelves, watch out for the bush between the 1st and 2nd anchor, it likes to catch to rope. Do a tricky move onto the upper slab then climb left to the anchors. You do have to go left and right a lot on this run.

Location 

On the right side of the Whale, reach the start by following The Whale trail north from a big pine tree at the base of the slab. Belay on the slab. If you want to rappel, find the shortest route down, plan on stopping near the belay point (still on the slab), or use a double rope to get back down to the dirt. A 60 meter rope is a must on this one. You can also just climb one person at a time and belay back down. The area at top is kinda small for more than one person. Also, it's tough to belay from the top on this one due to lack of place to sit or stand at the anchor.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Red Venus Slideshow

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Dave Wayne leading Red Venus.

Dave high on Red Venus.