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White Cliffs of Dover - Right Side
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Red Snapper 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Powell, Paul Schweizer, Alan Roberts & Randy Vogel, 1985
Page Views: 612
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Mar 7, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Red Snapper (5.11a) takes the crack to corner syst...

Description 

A couple of steep, burly moves off the ground lead to much more relaxed thin liebacking and jamming. Not terribly sustained for the grade but you have to be able to pull the first couple of moves. A really nice route on nice rock and a good lead for people trying to break into 5.11 as the crux is low and very well protected and the rest of the climbing is much easier.


Protection 

Several very thin cams (00, 0, and 1 TCUs or black, blue and green aliens) and thin nuts, selection of finger - hand sized gear as well. 1-3" for anchor. 3rd class off left to descend.



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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 11, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Short crux to decent climbing above. Nothing smaller than #1 tcu's (or green aliens) should be needed on this route.

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Apr 12, 2004

Does anyone have any beta on the start to this climb? I tried it this weekend and got shut down hard.

By Randy
Apr 13, 2004

I don't remember much, except that Powell "snapped" when he had a hard time with the first moves. Everything else is a blurr.

By Mark J Gain
Apr 17, 2005

Felt harder than 5.11a, start moves. But what do I know.

By Matelich
Apr 20, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

The start is V3. It may also be dependent on pain tolerance because the locker, two finger jam feels like it will cut your fingers off if your foot pops. The entry moves are definately harder than anything on Swept Away or Course and Buggy.

By Abdullah
Apr 28, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

The opening moves to this one are great V2-3 and burl. I used a right handjam thumbs up, crossing to a two finger(pinky and ring finger) thumbs up jam and throw to a right hand jam. I can see this as V1(.11a) in Josh though as Ive been on harder V2's there.

By Murf
May 9, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Perhaps finger specific, painful for sure, a stout boulder problem with a short,moderate layback on top.