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This one deserves a PG or R rating. The first bolt is about 30' up and the only gear up to that point is a #1 HB and a .5 Camalot in a shallow flared crack. The climbing through this section is delicate and sustained. I'm not real confident that either one of the gear placements would hold a fall. If you make it to the first bolt your safe and can now enjoy the sustained and very pumpy overhanging face to the top. If the gear was better on the bottom half this would be a classic comparable to Saved by Zero.
Just to the right of Saved by Zero.
#1 HB, .5 Camalot, 3 bolts and maybe a couple of small cams for the top slabs. #.5, .2 or .3 & #2 camalots for the anchor.
Apr 3, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13
Good route, though a little hairy at the bottom where there's no real pro to speak of (I think I got a poor nut placement and a blue? alien in before the first bolt) - though quite a fun route in the end. The book rates the climb as a 5.12a, but I think it fits better in the 5.11 range. It definately is a little pumpy towards the top, but is quite the fun line and a beautiful climb. Also, just FYI, the first bolt is starting to lose a little of the sandstone around it, though I expect it to still be good for some time.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 5, 2012
Always enjoyable to see the old school climbers tearing it up back in the day. Ground up, bold, and Beautiful. Not to be taken lightly.
The first bolt is 30-40 feet up. Marginal gear to that point. RP's and a 0.5-1" in a flaring crack that might hold. The moves getting to the 1st bolt are in the 11- range.