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 ADVANCED
(r) Pleasure Palace
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aggro Bumbly S 
Bop Till You Drop S 
Little Wicked Thing S 
Matthew 7:24 S 
Red Scare S 
Sea of Green S 
Watermark S 
We Be Toys S 
Xanadu S 
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Red Scare 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Pajunas Jon Sprecher 1989
Page Views: 787
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on May 22, 2006

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

In the lower section of The Pleasure Palace this fun face makes for a good warm up on a hot summer morning.

This is the right most of the routes in the lower section, it is the first area of decent looking rock uphill from Mesa Verde.

Follow face holds through a series of smallbulges to a bolted anchor.

Location 

The lower tier of the Pleasure Palace, the right most of three bolted routes.

Protection 

bolts


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By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This description is a bit confusing. "Red Scare" is the *middle* bolted climb on the lower Pleasure Palace wall. The right-most route on the lower wall is "Watermark." "Red Scare" starts up a steep, thin section located in the middle of the face and pretty much goes straight up to a small overhang/corner which is passed on the right before arriving at the chain anchors. "We Be Toys" is the 5.10a to the left of "Red Scare." All three of these routes provide fun, moderate face climbing. The lower Pleasure Palace wall is in the shade through early afternoon (maybe 2 pm) in the summer and stays shady most of the day into the Fall (September.) Hike out by going to the top and descending the "Misery Ridge" trail in the late afternoon and you'll catch some shade on the descent when it's hot.
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