This scenic wall in Big Cottonwood Canyon offers sport climbing on red limestone edges. It has spectacular views up Mineral Fork, looking at the back of Mt. Superior and the Superior ridge line. It faces south, so it is very nice during the Spring and Fall months. You are more likely to see hawks and elk than people here.
As always wear your helmet!
Park at the overflow for winter parking at the "Doughnut Falls" area.(This is where everyone sleds in the winter.) Walk back downcanyon, crossing the road to a thick group of pines on the north side of the canyon road. After passing a small red and white checked highway sign you will see the start of the trail (about 75 yards from parking). Pay attention to stay on the trail through the pine trees as there are many game trails that switch back and forth over the trail. Be sure to exit the first big talus field on the left part way up. Handlines are fixed at the perpetually loose steep bits. Hike with your head up or you will get off trail.
You will run into the business end of this climb at 2/3rds height, however several cruxy sections will already be behind you. Cool roof moves over and over. A wild climb!...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Thanks for sharing guys! This looks like it might be also be nice during a wintertime inversion. I hear there was monumental cleaning and equipping involved. And a killer trail to a nice moderate sport area.
You guys are probably already aware that there already is an area called Red Rock in the Wasatch....just thought I'd run it by you. Might prove confusing. How long (minutes or distance) is the approach? Can you get by with a 50m rope? a 60m rope? or does one need two ropes for routes like NO Recess? Thanks
Thanks....didn't do much "happy" bushwhacking. Our best views were of Cardiff Fork. Are you sure you could see Mineral Fork? Fun area which I am sure Edwards and Anderson now wish they had done more routes up there! We didn't find the rapping tricky at all even with just one rope. Good job on the anchors.
Big props to everyone who put all the work into this area. The trail was surprisingly well prepared (the fixed lines are a nice touch), the bolting is superb, and the view into Cardiff is amazing. My only (minor) complaint was the amount of loose rock so make sure to take your helmet, but this is to be expected on a relatively new crag.
IMPORTANT: Do not head up the talus field, go uphill and down canyon to cross it, to the continuation of the trail; there will be rock carins. If you go straight up then get prepared to hate life and do a shload of bushwhacking, with no fixed ropes to save you.
Doesn’t look like much, but this crag has great limestone, better than Hellgate. Steep but easy approach – Reasoning, No Recess, and Satan’s Snowblower, not to mention some of the best views BCC has to offer, are all well worth the walk. The routes go quickly, so there’s plenty of time for an après-climb Epic IPA or Stout at Silver Fork Lodge just up the road.
Amazing wall, great exposure. Had a little trouble finding the trail tho. When you reach the talus field with some rock cairns, follow them up north a short way and you'll see some rock cairns on the west side of the talus field by a tree (followed Broseph's advice and we still missed em and continued up - HUGE MISTAKE). The cairns mark a dirt trail you follow west and north a bit more leading to another talus field. Go up and stay on the east side of the talus field to find the dirt trail again and continue up until you see fixed ropes and rebar. If you are bushwacking you are doing something wrong, there is a trail! Steep and gets full sun, but this wall is definitely worth it. Bring a helmet there was a lot of loose rock still. No holds broke on us however. Thanks for taking the time to bolt this great wall.