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Red Rock Wall
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baked Bean Sandwich 
Burnt Cheese 
Don't Tell Paul 
God's WeedWacker 
Jen's French Kiss 
No Recess 
Reasoning With The Unreasonable 
Red Rock 
Reverend Hilti's Bosch 
Satan's Snowblower 
Woody Woodpecker 

Red Rock Wall 


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Page Views: 7,679. Good page? (5 likes)   
Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Luke Douglas on Nov 14, 2007

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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the view from the red rock wall

Description 

This scenic wall in Big Cottonwood Canyon offers sport climbing on red limestone edges. It has spectacular views up Mineral Fork, looking at the back of Mt. Superior and the Superior ridge line. It faces south, so it is very nice during the Spring and Fall months. You are more likely to see hawks and elk than people here.

As always wear your helmet!


Getting There 

Park at the overflow for winter parking at the "Doughnut Falls" area.(This is where everyone sleds in the winter.) Walk back downcanyon, crossing the road to a thick group of pines on the north side of the canyon road. After passing a small red and white checked highway sign you will see the start of the trail (about 75 yards from parking). Pay attention to stay on the trail through the pine trees as there are many game trails that switch back and forth over the trail. Be sure to exit the first big talus field on the left part way up. Handlines are fixed at the perpetually loose steep bits. Hike with your head up or you will get off trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Red Rock Wall:
Baked Bean Sandwich   5.8-     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Jen's French Kiss   5.9-     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Woody Woodpecker   5.9-     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
No Recess   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
God's WeedWacker   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Satan's Snowblower   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Reverend Hilti's Bosch   5.10b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Burnt Cheese   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Reasoning With The Unreasonable   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Browse More Classics in Red Rock Wall

Featured Route For Red Rock Wall
The FA of No Recess.

No Recess 5.10a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Red Rock Wall
The crux is low on this route but by the time you are done climbing it you may have forgotten. One of my favorites on this cliff. Long Live Nirvana. I was obsessed by the idea of "Super Routes" (thank Sharma) when I did this route, a super route for mortals. TP and I did the FA with a lead rope and a tag line so we could both lead it. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Red Rock Wall Slideshow Add Photo
updated topo 09/13/08

BETA PHOTO: updated topo 09/13/08

sign to mark trail, just west of dog lake trail head parking

BETA PHOTO: sign to mark trail, just west of dog lake trail he...


Comments on Red Rock Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2012
By tenesmus
Nov 14, 2007

Thanks for sharing guys! This looks like it might be also be nice during a wintertime inversion. I hear there was monumental cleaning and equipping involved. And a killer trail to a nice moderate sport area.

By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 14, 2007

you boys sure are busy...don't you live in the other canyon?
thanks for doing it right
i wonder how long its gonna take...never mind...we'll just see.
again...kudos

By James Garrett
Nov 16, 2007

You guys are probably already aware that there already is an area called Red Rock in the Wasatch....just thought I'd run it by you. Might prove confusing.
How long (minutes or distance) is the approach?
Can you get by with a 50m rope? a 60m rope? or does one need two ropes for routes like NO Recess?
Thanks

By James Garrett
Nov 16, 2007

Thanks....didn't do much "happy" bushwhacking. Our best views were of Cardiff Fork. Are you sure you could see Mineral Fork? Fun area which I am sure Edwards and Anderson now wish they had done more routes up there! We didn't find the rapping tricky at all even with just one rope. Good job on the anchors.

By zoso
Jul 3, 2008

The trail is SWEEEETTTT! Nice work on that. 20 min approach for me without rests. Rope, rebar, and switches? Nice work. Thanks.

By Brittany84
Jun 5, 2010

Access to this area needs to improve. Found the trail to be steep and eroding, having too short of switch-backs that blaze straight up.

By Luke Douglas
Jun 6, 2010

This area has biting ants and flies, vipers, bats, rabid giant squirrel's, horrid trails, and chossy climbing.In general this place sucks sweaty balls, don't go!

By split161
Sep 21, 2010

fun climbing at this wall, the approach would'nt be too bad if some trail work was done towards the top, expect some thick bush wacking 20-30min... bring a 70m rope

By Luke Douglas
Sep 23, 2010

If you stay on the trail there is no bush wacking, anywhere. There are even ropes attached to help through the loose sections at the top.
Read the getting there section above.

By Jason Smith 324
Jul 9, 2011

Big props to everyone who put all the work into this area. The trail was surprisingly well prepared (the fixed lines are a nice touch), the bolting is superb, and the view into Cardiff is amazing. My only (minor) complaint was the amount of loose rock so make sure to take your helmet, but this is to be expected on a relatively new crag.

By Broseph L
From: Provo Canyon, UT
Jul 4, 2012

IMPORTANT: Do not head up the talus field, go uphill and down canyon to cross it, to the continuation of the trail; there will be rock carins. If you go straight up then get prepared to hate life and do a shload of bushwhacking, with no fixed ropes to save you.

By Austin Gray
Jul 10, 2012

Trail is ez to follow, while also weeding out the slackers. we spent all day on the rock with the wall all to ourselves. just be sure to check hands as a few holds busted off

By John Steiger
Sep 3, 2012

Doesn’t look like much, but this crag has great limestone, better than Hellgate. Steep but easy approach – Reasoning, No Recess, and Satan’s Snowblower, not to mention some of the best views BCC has to offer, are all well worth the walk. The routes go quickly, so there’s plenty of time for an après-climb Epic IPA or Stout at Silver Fork Lodge just up the road.