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Red Rock Route 

YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Don Wilson and Garry Hemming, August 1953
Page Views: 818
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Red Rock Route as seen from the South Face summit....

Description 

This is a steep route with face climbing on large holds, plus some chimneying. A short 4th class second pitch takes you to the top. Approach the base of the climb from the left, using either the Friction Route or some scrambling on the slabs below the summit block.

Protection 

Include some medium to large pieces


Photos of Red Rock Route Slideshow Add Photo
Climber leading Red Roof Route
Climber leading Red Roof Route

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By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Can be done in one full pitch (60m rope) if you scramble up to the platform below the chimney to start. You can build an anchor with some small pieces and a red C4 if you wish.

The crux is short, and the climbing is relatively easy after, but calling this 5.1 is several orders of magnitude past a sandbag. The 5.7 assigned in the Vogel guide seems about right.
By Jace Mullen
From: Oceanside, Ca
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I don't believe the 5.1 that this was assigned. I agree with Vogel's 5.7
By The Gray Tradster
Aug 29, 2011

The 5.1 rating is a holdover from the original Willts guide.

There was a whole different attitude about the difficulty of chimney moves then, (the chimney at the start of Angels Fright was rated 5.0).

Compounding that, nobody ever did this route.
By Tradoholic
Feb 27, 2014
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Huh? 5.7? I don't think so, super easy all the way, no chimney moves required, jugs all the way.