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 ADVANCED
Devil's Den Bouldering
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Advantageous 
Aretascious 
Arete To Arete 
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Doing The Dew 
Feeling For The Heavens (aka Slow and Pooky) 
Hug, The 
Individual Medley 
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Pretty Bloc Swag 
Red 
Red Devil 
Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood 
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Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) 
Up in Smoke 

Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 13'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Tyler Hogan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 20, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the starting holds and general li...

Description 

This beautiful climb is a fantastic addition to the Devil's Den area.

Start sitting with both hands matched on the left side of the obvious wide rail. (The first ascentionist started with both hands matched on the sidepull feature.) Pull off the ground and move rightwards along the rail, using subtle beta, to eventually gain a good incut flake with the right hand. Then figure out a way to get your right hand to the arete/lip above (crux). This sequence is both powerful and technical.

Upon gaining the lip, traverse it leftwards to a monstrous top out jug. Throw a heel on and rock over. Done!


Location 

This climb is located uphill of 'Red' and just downhill of 'Universal Socket'. It is near the start of the route climb 'Sympathy For The Devil'.


Protection 

Two or three pads are helpful as the landing is mostly talus



Photos of Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood Slideshow Add Photo
This should help people find the climb. The red arrow shows where 'Red Right Hand' is and the blue arrow shows where 'Sympathy For The Devil' is. <br /> <br />'Universal Socket' is basically directly above the chalked lip in this photo.
BETA PHOTO: This should help people find the climb. The red ar...
Comments on Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood Add Comment
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 20, 2013

We weren't sure whether or not this climb had ever been done before. If it has, it was likely quite a while ago based on the amount of vegetation on the line before we started cleaning it. (If anyone has any info on the history of this climb, feel free to share!)

We had been interested in this line for a while and finally got around to cleaning and climbing it today. It's a beautiful line and it climbs quite well. Definitely worth doing if you're in the area.

Get on it and let us know what you think!

For those that might be interested, there are possibilities for one or two quite hard lines on the overhang to the right of this. Most likely v10 and up. We haven't had a chance to clean those yet. One of the flakes might need reinforcing before people start yanking on it too hard.

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Oct 21, 2013

I've been climbing around there for over a decade and have never seen that thing clean. The peak of Devils Den activity was around '98 though...

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 23, 2013

Bryce--

Thanks for the info.

While first ascents are always nice, ultimately that's not why we cleaned the line. We cleaned it because it looked rad. And we'd like to think that it is indeed a nice quality addition to the Den.

On a different note, what's the story with the prow above 'Universal Socket' (Devil's Trilogy)? Has it been done from a sit start? While I understand it's history as a route, in the context of Devil's Den it arguably makes more sense as a beautiful, hard boulder problem that starts sitting and finishes by dropping off from the jug. v9/10?

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 16, 2013

Footage of this problem begins at 1:35

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Nov 20, 2013
rating: V6 7A

Christian... WOW! this is one of the best new additions to the park in a while and I would say one of the best 6's in the park! Keith and I climbed it today and sticking that lip is crazy satisfying! Thanks for cleaning and pointing it out... to everyone else.... GET ON THIS CLIMB!

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 21, 2013

Glad you enjoyed it!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 6, 2014
rating: V6 7A

I echo the sentiments of everyone else, this problem is an area classic! Cool thoughtful and core engaging climbing leads up to a pure power move to the lip, one of the most satisfying climbs I have done! As Mike said, CLIMB THIS!!!