Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Red Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desperado 
Impossible Dream 
Leave It To Beaver 
Mantel Route, The 
Mr. Cornflakes 
Playground 
Pregnant Guppy 
Red Dwarf 
Red Red Whine 
Red Slab 

Red Red Whine 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 1,954
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 3, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Red Red Whine 5.8

Description 

Red Red Whine is the left-most bolted route on the Red Slab. The enjoyable crux is turning the small roof and is what makes the climb. The crux requires balance (or long arms and legs). The rest of the route is slab climbing on positive edges.

Note that this route isn't Impossible Dream (5.10d), which isn't bolted and is a few feet left of Red Red Whine. I think the confusion arises because the Ruckman guide topo for the Red Slab shows Impossible Dream and the topo location for Impossible Dream looks just like Red Red Whine.


Protection 

7 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors. Not a great top rope because of sharp edges, but doable. However, the anchor probably isn't safely accessible from the top without a belay.



Photos of Red Red Whine Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying the scenery and good rock on Red Red Whine.  Photo by Chad Durfey.
Enjoying the scenery and good rock on Red Red Whin...
Waiting for the rain was totally worth it.
Waiting for the rain was totally worth it.
2006-Sep-29: Jessica on the crux of Red Red Whine. After a few attempts, she got this part down pretty good.
2006-Sep-29: Jessica on the crux of Red Red Whine....
Me on Red Red Whine in 2003. I was living in China at the time and came to Utah for a couple weeks every summer. There are just so many things to love about this picture... The Mocassyms that were way too big for me (and the socks I wore...), the webbing harness, the old Patagonia shirt... On top of that, it's an underexposed buttshot. Ah yes, those were the days.
Me on Red Red Whine in 2003. I was living in China...
Comments on Red Red Whine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
May 13, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The crux at the roof is dicey if you don't nail the sequence. I've climbed 5.10s with easier rooves. Without the roof, the climing is very easy.

By Granger
Aug 30, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I agree with Ryan. And the crux on this is harder than the one on "A Rose is a Rose".

What's cool about the overhang is that it's harder if you go up on the right of the overhang-bolt than if you climb across from the left. However, approaching the overhang is easier on the right of the bolts.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Hey, it's about as hard as Chicago Overhang. I agree with C. Knight; the rating is fine at 5.8 the sequence is just hard to hit exactly right. But the holds to make it 5.8 are all there...maybe we should go back to the days where 5.9 was the hardest and everything harder we called .9+

This is where Tristan inserts a joke about me being old enough to remember that time...sheesh!

By Brandon Bishoff
From: Austin, TX
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Like Granger I took the variation to the right and thought it was more of a low 10 roof, but the girl I was with followed went to the left before the roof and cruised up it.

By Bradly
Sep 11, 2012

Climb is easy with the exception of that roof. Took me several tries. With that exception, easy climb.

Photo From the Top of Red Red Whine Looking out towards Provo
Photo From the Top of Red Red Whine Looking out towards Provo