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Red Neck Superhero
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.6 from 46
votes
Routes in Coolsville
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Ascot Aura S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Little Smokey Goes Downtown S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Little Smokey Goes Downtown and Gets Flakey S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mellow Slide Into Coolsville S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Neck Superhero S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Robot Steamroller S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sleep Reaction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stick It Into Coolsville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Super 8 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vulcan Jessery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Mike Snyder |
| Page Views: | 1,406 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Jul 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Begins on what used to be a black vert wall. The fire in spring of 2012 burned so close to the rock that much of the black layer exploded off. Fortunately the start of this route was unaffected. Step up to reach the pocket and scamper onto the shelf. Begin again working up a fun section to the lower angle to rest. When the angle steepens again a hard crux awaits. The bulge has good pockets for a few clips and then another crux guards the anchors. Hardest of the three routes but maybe easy for 5.12c.
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