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Dome Rock
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Red Mushrooms 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richardson, Leversee, Thompson, Row (1979)
Page Views: 1,149
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 24, 2006
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Romain Wacziarg, past the crux and cruising, on Re...

Description 

P1: A true sport route (as long as you don't expect solid, modern bolts). 7 bolts to a ledge with rappel anchors (for those wishing to retreat) OR 9 bolts to the original P1 belay. The crux is reaching the first bolt (10+). There are a few 5.10 moves to the second bolt, then the rest of the pitch is sustained 5.9+ climbing on delicate smears with the occasional thin edge. Sport climbers who plan to lower from the first anchor should consider top roping the left-hand variation past three bolts and a shallow crack (5.10c R/X) and "the Good Samaritan" (5.11+ PG13), a breath-taking exercise in friction on the right-hand side.

P2: From the higher anchor, P2 sets off through a series of small roofs (5.7, protected by three bolts, no gear) This section is not a sport route and feels significantly runout. Next, a large roof (small to medium gear) is encountered. Belay just above the roof from two bolts.

P3: Long, runout slab climbing leads to the top.


Location 

This route is the obvious line of bolts and conspicuous series of roofs just to the right of "the Last Dihedral," a massive right-facing corner on the far south side of Dome Rock.


Protection 

Standard rack, 7-10 quickdraws.

The first two bolts are 3/8" Rawls. Bolts 3-6 are 5/16" button-head compression bolts. The 7th bolt is a 1/4" buttonhead (luckily the climbing at this point is easy).



Photos of Red Mushrooms Slideshow Add Photo
My pal Betsy at the base of Red Mushrooms.  We skidded all over this thing, but couldn't make it to the first bolt.
My pal Betsy at the base of Red Mushrooms. We ski...
Another view of "Red Mushrooms" (climber: Nate Conroy)
Another view of "Red Mushrooms" (climber: Nate Con...
Nate Conroy well past the crux and cruising on the outstanding first pitch of "Red Mushrooms."
Nate Conroy well past the crux and cruising on the...
After having lead Red Mushrooms, Doug Steigerwald top ropes the left-hand variation (5.10c X). This quality face climb is protected by just 2 bolts for 80 feet of climbing.  <br /> <br />The orange dots mark the traditional path taken for this route. If climbing with less experienced folks, the path marked by the red dots is highly recommended. For this variation, start on the first 15 feet of the Last Dihedral and then traverse diagonally into the 2nd bolt of the the 10c. Climbed this way, the route goes at only 5.8.
BETA PHOTO: After having lead Red Mushrooms, Doug Steigerwald ...
Comments on Red Mushrooms Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 24, 2006

According to the Mosher/Vernon/Paul guidebook, the first pitch originally sported just 6 bolts. Three newer bolts fill in the gaps, making the route one of the most tightly bolted on the Dome. A lower P1 anchor was also added more recently. Sport climbers should not continue to the original, higher anchor unless carrying 2 ropes.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 24, 2008

Climbing past the first two bolts on this route is feeling harder than ever. I climbed this route the other day and the holds seemed weathered. I actually would have said 5.10d or 11a. The remainder of the route still felt like sustained 9+.