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 ADVANCED
Dome Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti Jello direct. S 
Anti-Jello Crack T 
Arwen T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 
Close To The Edge T,S 
Good Samaritan, The T 
Just Barely T,S 
Last Dihedral, The T 
Last Homely House T 
Left Crack T 
Old Man Quiver S 
Red Mushrooms T 
Sanitarium T,S,TR 
Tobin's Dihedral T 
Tree Route T 
Unknown, South of Tree Route T 
Vicious T 
Windjammer T 
Unsorted Routes:

Red Mushrooms 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richardson, Leversee, Thompson, Row (1979)
Page Views: 1,310
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Romain Wacziarg, past the crux and cruising, on Re...

Description 

P1: A true sport route (as long as you don't expect solid, modern bolts). 7 bolts to a ledge with rappel anchors (for those wishing to retreat) OR 9 bolts to the original P1 belay. The crux is reaching the first bolt (10+). There are a few 5.10 moves to the second bolt, then the rest of the pitch is sustained 5.9+ climbing on delicate smears with the occasional thin edge. Sport climbers who plan to lower from the first anchor should consider top roping the left-hand variation past three bolts and a shallow crack (5.10c R/X) and "the Good Samaritan" (5.11+ PG13), a breath-taking exercise in friction on the right-hand side.

P2: From the higher anchor, P2 sets off through a series of small roofs (5.7, protected by three bolts, no gear) This section is not a sport route and feels significantly runout. Next, a large roof (small to medium gear) is encountered. Belay just above the roof from two bolts.

P3: Long, runout slab climbing leads to the top.

Location 

This route is the obvious line of bolts and conspicuous series of roofs just to the right of "the Last Dihedral," a massive right-facing corner on the far south side of Dome Rock.

Protection 

Standard rack, 7-10 quickdraws.

The first two bolts are 3/8" Rawls. Bolts 3-6 are 5/16" button-head compression bolts. The 7th bolt is a 1/4" buttonhead (luckily the climbing at this point is easy).


Photos of Red Mushrooms Slideshow Add Photo
My pal Betsy at the base of Red Mushrooms.  We ski...
My pal Betsy at the base of Red Mushrooms. We ski...
Another view of "Red Mushrooms" (climber...
Another view of "Red Mushrooms" (climber...
Nate Conroy well past the crux and cruising on the...
Nate Conroy well past the crux and cruising on the...
After having lead Red Mushrooms, Doug Steigerwald ...
BETA PHOTO: After having lead Red Mushrooms, Doug Steigerwald ...

Comments on Red Mushrooms Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 24, 2006

According to the Mosher/Vernon/Paul guidebook, the first pitch originally sported just 6 bolts. Three newer bolts fill in the gaps, making the route one of the most tightly bolted on the Dome. A lower P1 anchor was also added more recently. Sport climbers should not continue to the original, higher anchor unless carrying 2 ropes.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 24, 2008

Climbing past the first two bolts on this route is feeling harder than ever. I climbed this route the other day and the holds seemed weathered. I actually would have said 5.10d or 11a. The remainder of the route still felt like sustained 9+.