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Red Lizard 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Pastor
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Follow the line of bolts up the center of the buttress past numerous weird cruxes. There are often good rests. An intermediate anchor at 90' is a sensible place to stop, but you can continue on at 5.9+ through an exposed headwall. This will require two ropes or two lowers, unless you lower from a single bolt & quicklink at a point where things get low angle. From here, with backcleaning, you can lower off with a 70m rope, but it's probably a bad idea to use just one bolt as your anchor. Honestly, the "real" climbing ends at the first anchor, but the next stretch is pretty fun and makes for a long pitch.

Protection 

At least 18 draws if you go all the way. A dozen or so to the first anchor.


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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 12, 2012

Great climbing and lots of midday sun. Too bad there aren't more like this around.